22.8.2022
Although we are used to say that "in Slovakia in Slovak", the amended title is also true, based on my personal experience from this summer. During my stay in Tuscany, Italian cuisine got under my skin, so during my travels in Slovakia, I only welcomed the fact that even in my homeland it is possible to eat well in Italian way and for a while to get to a holiday mood with an Italian accent.
While driving through the Slovak secluded places you will find out, very soon and surprisingly, that a piece of Italy is basically in every Slovak village, where besides the pub there is also a pizzeria, often in a merged form two in one, which corresponds, of course, to the quality of pizza and services. In addition, you are often enchanted by the name of the "original Italian pizzeria", something in the spirit of "At the good farmer/shepherd", as if poor shepherds and farmers had long ago pizza in their menu and I am convinced that from the "farmer's pizza", which must not be missing in any village menu, they would know only sausage. The Slovak obsession with pizza is also manifested in an increasing number of pizza vending machines of the brand Let's Pizza, the invention of which is, of course, Italian, and it is not about baking frozen semi-finished products, but about automating the entire preparation process in a relatively short time limit. You can meet pizzaautomats in aquaparks or railway stations in several places in Slovakia, so you can observe through the small window how the automaton kneads the dough, puts the selected ingredients and then quickly bakes, so that finally the finished product is given to you through the small window. Also, many restaurants are probably enchanted by Italian cuisine as much as I am, so their menu is teeming with bruschettes, risottos, spaghetti, gnocchi and the mandatory equipment includes, of course, Aperol, but sometimes, to put it mildly, you are taken aback by the Slovak-ish result. So, for example, bruschetta is sometimes in our Slovak version toasted old bread with tomato and garlic, and although I like Slovak bread, nicely toasted on lard, I would not necessarily call it bruschetta. I could continue with unpleasant Slovak-Italian experiences, but not all Slovak attempts of "true Italian cuisine" end in such a fiasco. There are also great places where you will not only find yourself one foot in Italy, but also perfectly revive your holiday taste memories.
One such opportunity is the current seasonal menu of the restaurant Amalia in the Kubinyi manor house in Vyšný Kubín and another such a true Italian oasis, undoubtedly, is Fiorino in Dolný Kubín, where, in addition to a large selection of quality Italian food, you will of course get real Italian coffee, prepared according to the Italian manners and panini with such great ham and cheese that you will not leave without a few slices with you. Moreover, the panini are filled with ham so generously that a vegetarian would certainly cry over the number of piglets that fell on the altar of one portion, but this will bring a wave of unheard happiness to a non-vegetarian. The true Italian atmosphere is perfectly complemented by current news and music in Italian language and especially by the friendly attitude of the owners to their customers, and for the regular ones they already know exactly what, how and when to prepare. Italian are also opening hours with a small siesta at lunchtime and a well-being that literally pulls you in. In many Slovak cities you can find similar shops with Italian food, for example, recently opened Dolce vita in Žilina, but I dare to say that you will not find the real Italy there. In addition to the very limited offer, the serving lady is far from the Italian warm customer friendliness. She sits in front of the store, scrolls on his cell phone and looks at anyone who seems to like to come in with disinterest. If you still decide to cross the door sill, she will silently observe you and will not be very helpful in your choice, and so you will probably walk away empty-handed. However, if you are already in Žilina, walk a few meters away and make your Italian taste feel better with bakery products from the craft bakery Crostabakery where, in addition to traditional Slovak pastries, you will also get Italian ones, including my beloved foccacia.
If you are in Liptov, for a change, and you already have enough of original Slovak sheep cheese and its products, go to Demänová to pizzeria-bistro AHA pizza pasta. In the middle of this purely Slovak location you will be overwhelmed by true Italian flavors. Pizza is baked according to the Neapolitan pattern in a wood oven from selected flours directly from Naples, traditionally with original Italian mozzarella and unusually complemented with Grana Padano cheese. In the spirit of the Slovak proverb, to make the wolf full and the sheep whole, you will also find Liptov pizza, whose Italian base (mozzarella, olive oil) is complemented by pure Slovak ingredients from local sources (sour cream, sheep cheese, farm bacon, chives). In addition to pizza, you can of course also find pasta (as the name itself says) in the form of various classic Italian types of spaghetti and pappardelle. In this pizzeria you will enjoy the opportunity to watch the preparation of your food directly from the table, because the cooking counter is located at the very front as part of the serving one. The interior will impress you with a combination of Italian country style with the elegance and nobility of crystal. Desserts take the form of Italian classics-tiramisu, panna cotta, cannoli, but their taste will sit you so deep in your chair that you will never really want to leave the place. Tiramisu in a glass from Mr. confectioner Devečka from nearby Liptovský Mikuláš is a guarantee of complete well-being, whether in chocolate or fruit form, and panna cotta is prepared so soft, smooth and milkcreamy that you will be in seventh heaven. In addition, if you have it with coffee, which is supplied here by a quality Aurelica roaster from Liptovský Mikuláš, there will be nothing more about and you will want to return to this Liptov-Italian enclave in the shortest possible time intervals.
When it comes to coffee, the Italian one is worldwide known and you get the original Italian coffee in so many places in Slovakia that it is useless to write about it. The blue Lavazza logo or the red of Illy brand will pop up at you at least once in every Slovak city. Deciding which one is better is similar to deciding the better option in Mercedes versus BMW or Samsung versus Apple battle. The difference between these premium brands of Italian coffee is perhaps only that Illy focuses on using 100% Arabica beans, while Lavazza offers a blend of Arabica and Robusta coffee in most of its products. In Slovak-Italian oases you will also meet the Ionia brand coffee, which dominates in original Italian cafes and is a guarantee of tasting real Sicilian espresso. Less common is the logo of Carraro coffee, founded in the Italian city of Schio in 1927, where they focus on the selection of quality coffee beans and especially strict observance of years-proven methods of roasting. You will come across this coffee, for example, in Dubnica nad Váhom in a very original cafe in the style of the American 60s Bublina (Bubble). It is aromatic, delicious and will not burden your digestion, which will come in handy because just a few steps from this cafe there is an Italian restaurant Per Lei furnished in the style of the Tuscan countryside, offering pizza baked on beech wood, where they make their own pasta and bake their own bread. Their menu, in addition to typical Italian dishes, also offers typical Slovak broth, atypical Italian burgers and various types of meat, all prepared on the grill. Undoubtedly, basil ice cream on balsamic strawberries will also attract attention, but I would rather go for original Italian ice cream in Dubnica a few meters further to Suavé gelato. Anyone who has ever tasted original Italian ice cream will undoubtedly prove me right that the Italian word "gelato" (ice cream) in the name of this establishment is absolutely right, because their ice cream is indistinguishable from the Italian one. On the other hand, some flavors are perfectly Slovak – walnut and grapes are my favorites of this summer. But whichever you choose, the creaminess of a quality cream, the smooth texture, the natural flavors of the ingredients used and the generosity of the portions will clearly catapult you right on the Italian beach promenade.
To mention Italian sweets, I must admit that in Italy I resist them quite easily, because they are based on dairy products (mascarpone, ricotta, cream and milk) that do not quite match with my lactose intolerance and are almost always flavored with lemon zest, which is also not quite one of my favorites. However, I was intrigued by the typical Italian tricolour of Italian expression Dolcetto (dessert) next to the main road in Ilava, so we parked the car in the side alley, not knowing what was waiting for us there. I have never visited this city before and after this visit I already know why. There is nothing what for. Just with the exception of the aforementioned confectionary shop Dolcetto which also opened its branch in nearby Púchov. This family Slovak-Italian confectionery prides itself on the quality, original Italian ingredients and the mastery of the Italian confectioner Janes. You will be brought to your knees by their pastry shop, which is full of beautifully decorated desserts that are difficult to choose from. You will find there also our confectionery classics, but I recommend the Italian ones – panna cotta in the form of a cake or a roll, cannoli, profiterole or mille foglie – the Italian version of the French dessert mille feuille (thousand petals), which is a combination of layers of puff pastry and light vanilla cream, which I would be able, in the case of Dolcetto, to eat a bucket of, which as a serving would certainly not be worthy of its quality. I'm actually not that far from the reality, as this confectionery will not offer you the opportunity to enjoy desserts on the spot, so we ate these Italian sweet gems in "homeless" way on a bench in the park in front of Dubnica mansion. Initially, we wanted to enjoy the box of desserts with coffee somewhere on the terrace of an Ilava cafe, but to our question, "Where is a good cafe in Ilava?", the serving lady with raised eyebrows countered us with her question with a more than eloquent doubtful tone: "Good coffee? In Ilava? Try rather somewhere else...“ So we moved on, to the nearest park bench, and not only had great cakes without coffee, but we eagerly and irreverently dug them right out of the box, with our bare hands (no forks/spoons available). When we cleaned our sticky hands, with a wonderful memory of the great taste of real Italian "dolci", we were further excited by the beautiful forest park, which is a part of Dubnica manor house along with the mysterious "Grotta" (another Italian term), which is actually an artificial cave with an observation tower in a remote part of the park. Just as Dubnica satisfied us with its Italian offer, so Ilava disappointed us, where we considered, besides the aforementioned pastry shop, the only interesting place to eat Vegáč, whose daily menu, however, contains so many unknown vegetarian and raw foods that I had to take a dictionary to at least partially understand it, but on the other hand, it will certainly satisfy the vegetarian who cried at the beginning of my post.
As it is said, everyone according to their taste, for me it will be according to Italian taste, with a lot of prosciutto, pizza, mozzarella, cappucino and gelato ... During my Slovak wanderings, I found out that in addition to the fact that in Slovakia you can eat great Italian food, in fact, you also learn Italian language reading the menus of Slovak restaurants. The bonus will also be the negligible carbon footprint you leave when traveling around Slovakia compared to the one you would create if you went to Italy for real Italian cuisine:)
28.6.2022
The summer is slowly, but surely coming and you will certainly find time to wander around our beautiful country. Mountains, castles, mansions, thermal springs – there is an abundance of what our homeland offers to everyone who decides to discover and get to know it. However, remarkable natural or cultural uniqueness often slightly fades due to the low quality of services that are somehow naturally expected in tourism. It is clearly an area in which we are limping a little in Slovakia and there would be a lot to improve. On the other hand, it is the source of many funny stories such as my own.
Just few weeks ago I visited Podhájska again. It used to be a favorite holiday destination not only of our people, but foreigners as well. Hoping that since the last, to put it mildly, daunting experience, things (meaning the service) have improved, I gave, without prejudice, a second chance to this lovely village with a few rare thermal springs, which in theory should make it a famous holiday paradise. Even this time, the paradise did not occur. Despite the diverse offer of swimming in the leaflet, not all swimming pools were actually available, which they forgot to inform about at the checkout – some were without water, which, of course, made bathing in them considerably more complicated. Around six in the evening, hunger reached us, and the pizza seemed like a secure choice. However, we scored next door when choosing a pizzeria, because the ordered pizza had to be waited for – so we were told, while the waiting time was not specified in more detail. We were in no hurry, so we decided to wait, like a certain German guest waiting for accommodation, because the pizzeria was also a boarding house in which this poor man tried to accommodate. I observed the inability of the waitress to talk to him and felt sorry for him, so I selflessly offered my language services. Fortunately, an elderly gentleman from Germany was fluent in English, so it went quite easy thanks to my language skills, and I learned that he was helplessly waiting for his booked room for more than an hour and no one was paying attention to him, because they did not understand him. After transferring his request, the waitress asked him to wait until someone else came to accommodate him, because she was busy handling pizza orders (understand the ours). But I couldn't figure out why the other two young waitresses who delivered drinks were not able to at least somehow communicate with the poor German, because graduation in one foreign language has been compulsory in Slovakia for years. Apart from the incomprehensible language barrier, I was also shocked by the waiting time which was in this establishment, offering both accommodation and food services, really alarming. We got our pizzas after an hour and a half and when we were leaving, the helpless German motorbiker was still waiting for his room. When I was lying on my bed in another guesthouse that evening, wondering if I was going to pay extra for the air conditioning, because the room was like a Finnish sauna, his condescending smile occured to me as he resignedly reclined against the reception desk after he had spent an hour there and, falling asleep, I wondered if he was still waiting for his bed there or he gave up and lied down in the parking lot next to his motorcycle. In Podhájska you have countless options where to bend your head and bathed body (if you hit the right pool), however, this German was seriously unlucky when choosing this one, as we did when choosing a pizzeria, and I would be surprised if he ever returned there again, unless he would again want to spend his vacation standing at the reception waiting for accommodation or dinner. Even if he wanted to complain, no one would understand or pay attention to him, so I do not see much chance of improving the current deplorable state.
That weekend, however, probably all the evil forces, whose task is to degrade the level of catering services in Slovak restaurants, conspired against us, because in the nearby town of Topolčianky they showed us a sample prototype of an incompetent waiter. Upon entering, he informed us lisping that we would have to wait (again) for him, because other customers are ahead of us in the order. He left us at the mercy of fate, so we ourselves settled down to the free table. We had booked a tour of the castle at 13:00 and the clock on the castle tower struck only half past eleven, so we did not panic, because we were sure that by then we would definitely have time to eat. You might guess it wasn't that sure. The waiter was slow and clumsy as if it was his first day at work, but on the other hand it gave us endless opportunities to have fun. So, for example, it was worth seeing how he accepted our orders. When we dictated the third drink, he seriously asked about the desired temperature of the first one, which he honestly and thoroughly (understand extremely slowly) marked with a first grade pupil's writing. We had the opportunity to see it when he put his writing block on the table and "ran" to take the completed order to those guests who were ahead of us, while the first part of it had been already taken away by the impatient cook, who pleadingly, but in vain, was ringing for him from the kitchen. At first, the waiter wasn't disturbed by the ringing at all and as writing down our first order, but then it began probably to dawn on him that it was ringing for him, so he put the block on our table and with a sigh went to fulfill his waiter's duty. After a while, he returned and we dictated meanly our next order a little faster than he could write, which meant that he kept asking and returning to the previous one while trying to keep the correct incline of his handwriting. After a round of ordering drinks in the style of "say, repeat, explain", we finally got to the meal. When we asked what it means "smoked" soup, we got a really well – founded answer - "well, smoked". So, for the fun, we ordered it to find out that it was far from being smoked in a smokehouse, but simply it is prepared from smoked meat. Finally, we managed to dictate our demands, and we hoped that the young man, whom we suspected only pretending to be a waiter like in the movie "Vrchní prchni", would be able to correctly reproduce them to the cook. In the meantime, we were making a gloating plan how to put the young pseudo-waiter even more out of countenance. There was a chair left vacant at our table, so we wanted to insidiously pretend that someone was really sitting there and have a completely normal conversation with that invisible person. We had a lot of fun while practicing this fictitious conversation, but in the end, in order to preserve the mental health of the novice waiter, who for some mysterious reason lacked all the front teeth, and also for fear that he would throw us out and we would remain hungry, we gave up this unsightly plan. Fortunately, the cook was far from such an amateur, and when he finally got our order of 7 different dishes, he did a perfect job. Although we seriously considered changing the restaurant after the initial fiasco, I am sincerely glad that we did not, because the food was simply fabulous. Excellently prepared, seasoned, served – the taste buds purred with bliss. After a great gourmet delight, we took a risk and tried to order again, this time desserts from a tempting menu, but, instructed by previous experience, we did so while, and not after, eating the main course, in order to save some time. The time of our tour was inexorably approaching, but those desserts would also be worth a little delay. We were particularly impressed by the original castle cake, reminiscent of the Black Forest cake, which had a fine cocoa dough, a light cream with marinated cherries and taste buds purred again with bliss, despite the fact that we actually ate with one foot on departure, because in parallel with the consumption of desserts we were packing and paying and leaving at the same time. If not for the clumsy, slow and inexperienced waiter, this gastronomic experience at Topolčiansky Castle could have been perfect. But the castle clock struck inexorably for one hour, and we were taken by the guide with an extremely piercing voice and such a dramatic speech, as if she declared before Masaryk himself, who used to stay here, the Memorandum of the Slovak nation. However, the Slovak nation has something to be proud of in Topolčianky, the castle is breathtaking, full of beautifully preserved relics. I hope that the German tourist from Podhájska also visited it here and at least a little corrected the strange impression of Slovak hospitality. Although-who knows if he would actually find the way here. Even if you speak the native language of the local people, it is not easy. A hint of information boards is missing, and if you find any, it will certainly be in a pour condition. In fact, I have been feeling the lack of relevant guidelines in Slovakia for a long time. One can be endlessly looking for the right path to the chosen sightseeing attraction. We couldn't find our way in Topoľčianky, when we were looking for the area where the horse races were to take place – finally we went with a crowd that had hats on their heads and picnic baskets in their hands, from which we concluded that they were heading right there. We couldn't find our way in Podhájska, when we were looking for a summer cinema, in Tesárske Mlyňany in the arboretum, where not and not to find a pond beautifully drawn in a small plan, which we had to buy with tickets but it did not help to find the pond, we were lost in Oponice, where the ruins of the castle were very successfully hiding from us, and I don't really remember where we were simply guided by well-placed and up-to-date information boards. Since we speak Slovak and we are not afraid to use this language, we always end up getting where we want, but a foreign tourist who does not speak our language may have a problem, because our ordinary citizens, and even worse, employees in the tourism industry, are not exactly champions in foreign languages.
But in order not to throw dirt only on Slovak tourist services, I will throw a little to the neighbours, as well. Despite the generally positively received quality of services in Brno, there was also one place where entry is almost prohibited to foreigners. I let myself be tempted by the exterior of the confectionery "Pusinka", which, from the outside, was very reminiscent of a fairy-tale gingerbread little cottage. I had no idea that there was a real witch inside. The woman behind the counter was an excellent example of meanness and wickedness. Baba Yaga from a fairy gingerbread house had poison in her heart, but honey on her tongue, which would be quite enough for me in this case. Baba Yaga from Brno, however, had the poison just on the tongue and splashed it first-rate. At first she corrected me with disdain that they do not sell "cakes" but "desserts", then she told me with disgust that she did not understand me (wearing anti-Covid mask), and finally, with a grin worthy of the worst witch, she said that it was impossible to pay with a card there. I was just waiting to be put on a shovel and shoved into the oven. Unfortunately, it looks like I'll have to go back there sometime, because her "desserts" were brutally good.
Well, I'll probably have to endure that the motto "our customer, our master" does not apply in our region, if I don't want to miss some magnificent sights and unrepeatable gourmet experiences. I know many places where I like it, but where they treat me like an annoying insect, not realizing that just a little smile and a piece of kindness would be enough to make Slovakia a paradise for everyone...
2.6.2022
Sometimes it happens in life that you plan big, even grandiose things, and when it comes to the breaking point, you get only a feeble replacement from life, if anything. But sometimes fate plays with you, and the replacement is actually even better than the original plan. And exactly in this spirit my last gourmet trip to Nitra went.
I planned to conquer two luxury restaurants and one web-recommended ice cream shop. As luck would have it that day, but both restaurants were closed. First, the restaurant Songe at the Château Appony in Oponice was closed not so much because of the bad luck as because of the tractor drivers who had a kind of meeting there. Their huge green and red tractors messed up the entire courtyard of the mansion, so in addition to a gourmet lunch, I had to give up photos of this beautifully renovated mansion, which otherwise would have been amazing given the beautiful summer weather. Since hunger cannot be ignored, I took out my own sandwich, which I had prepared for "what if" situation and on a park bench under the mighty trees, I dug in. Although it was "just" a small picnic in the shadow of the mansion, instead of the planned white chocolate buns, which I had previously chosen from the menu of the renowned restaurant, it tasted great and was also completed with such a cultural experience that would hardly be beaten by the buns – a tour of Appony's library in the mansion, which remained, thank God, protected from the raid of tractors. Its premises and professional comment of the guide were engraved in my memory so intensely that I completely forgot about the whole wonderful restaurant. I forgot about it also when climbing to the ruins of the Oponice Castle, for whose visit I had a lot of more time thanks to the closed restaurant and so Icould enjoy beautiful views of the wide surroundings.
The second planned gourmet stop was to be at a fine French restaurant Clé d'or in Nitra at the foot of Zobor mountain, where I was looking forward to a cock in wine. However, due to the sanitary day, there was no cock. And so instead of a lavish lunch, I was left with "just" a visit to the Zobor monastery, which is located in close proximity to the restaurant. Even this replacement program, however, provoked a whole cascade of wonderful experiences in an incredibly magical place, and so instead of looking for pieces of chicken meat in wine sauce, I could play an archaeologist and look for historical artifacts in the sand in the form of found ceramics, or let myself enchant by legends that are associated with this place, including the one about the healing power of water from Svorad's spring, which, however, on that hot day just gently let down tiny drops of water. Nevertheless, walking through the forest, where the famous Svorad and Beňadik once found their refuge, you felt the power of silence and were only one step away from cleansing meditation. Mentally strengthened by the magical atmosphere, however, I did not forget about my mundane physical needs either. Despite the closed restaurant, it was necessary to fight off the hunger, which was persistently showing, since my stomach already "just" fondly remembered the picnic sandwich. Probably space forces, or an ideal constellation of stars, caused me to find a free parking lot in the very heart of Nitra on Farska Street, just opposite the small and cozy cafe Moka which it was impossible to resist. Although it was "just" a cafe, thanks to an interesting offer of unusual treats and quality coffee, it reliably drove away hunger and disappointment from another closed restaurant. I couldn't resist pistachio croissant, blueberry croffin with super fresh and especially generous filling, and I still had macaroons, cookies, mini nougat rolls and many other goodies packed in the box with me. And so again under the mighty crowns of trees, this time it was beautifully smelling linden trees, I had "just" unusually ordinary goodies and delicious coffee instead of a cock on wine. However, if I add the kind service, I could not ask for anything more to satisfy the gourmet appetites and I was finally grateful that the prestigious restaurant was closed that day.
It seemed it was the high time to find and try ice cream in an ice cream shop Gio on Kupecky Street, which is tempting people by interesting profile on social networks. The enticing interior, which transports you to a retro apartment from the last century, tempts you with an ice cream offer as well, which, although it looked modest at first glance, was more than appealing. Finally, we bet on pistachio ice cream and grapefruit sorbet. The ice cream didn't amaze too much, but the pistachio one was pleasantly smooth and slightly sweet, while after the grapefruit sorbet the hairs in my nose bristled. I haven't eaten anything more acerbic and sour yet. Even if you like fresh ice creams, in this case get ready for the brutal fresh acidity that will blow tears into your eyes. Summed up - this was disappointment number three. However, after previous experiences, I hoped in a corner of my soul that this would be compensated by something special, too– and it happened. Walking through the streets with an exceptional guide was crowned by discovering an inconspicuous but all the more exceptional pastry shop with the best Balkan ice cream I have ever tasted. "Just" one scoop of their caramel ice cream is guaranteed to bring you to the ice cream heaven. Again, outside and again, under the branches of the trees, I had another great gourmet experience of that day, which 100% counterweighted the previous disappointment.
When you travel, there is nothing better than being guided by local people knowing the ropes who know where to find great tastes comparing to social network recommendations. Our guide revealed to us not only the real ice cream secret of Nitra, but also took us to a large city park, where we were first delighted by a red mini car with great coffee and then also by the exterior and interior (not to mention the cake menu) of the restaurant and pastry shop Starý Buskupský Hostinec (Old Bishop's Inn), which with nobility continues the tradition of refreshment of passers-by and tired travelers. You are guaranteed to forget about fatigue after tasting the coconut-passion fruit or raspberry cake, but the range of snacks is much wider and, considering the number of guests, extremely popular and appreciated. Having tasted the cakes, I also confirm that the pastry masters, from under whose hands these confectionery gems arose, are clearly knowledgeable in their craft.
However, after so much sugar, we were longing for something unsweetened and uncooled before coming back to Orava. And so I was taken into the yard, from where children's laughter echoed, by the infallible smell of fried potatoes which spread through the air. I was caught by Belgian fries Fryday although it was "just" Thursday. Before my eyes, sliced, freshly roasted, interestingly served, they promised to get the slogan of this establishment (The best fries, made with love from fresh potatoes). I also appreciated the determination of the waitress to defend the secret of their secret sauce - a specialty of this restaurant, which, however, she was at the same zealously recommending and, I must say, justifiedly. Whatever they put into it, they did it perfectly. In addition to being able to taste all the goodies that day in Nitra, I also learned one important thing. Even if you get from life "just" a fraction of what you desire, in the end it may be better and more precious than the great expectations that often bring with them also great disappointments. Fortunately, the universe cares about the balance of the world using "just" such ordinary and yet great things...
11.11.2021
One Slovak motivational saying says that when somebody closes the door in front of your nose, climb in through the window and it was brought to my mind when we were discovering the surroundings of Banská Bystrica few days ago. Given the covid era, we really "enjoyed" the closed doors more than enough. The districts, through which we passed, were colored on Covid map from rich burgundy to black, and so as first, we found the closed doors of our cultural heritage - a unique wooden church in Hronsek, into which we looked unculturally through the windows, through which nothing could be seen. Fortunately, my daughter, who knows modern tricks and the possibilities of smart phones, was with us and thanks to her "smart" camera, we were able to peek and admire the beauty of the interior of this architectural gem, closed for the quarantine of guides that day. The doors of the local baroque manor house were also closed, this time due to the poor condition of the entire building, and we had to prove them right when we peeped through the broken windows on the ground floor. But beautiful and freely accessible was the park in its surroundings, which is lovingly looked after by the village people hoping to find funds to save the manor house, as was the case with the Water Castle, which is a stone's throw away. However, the castle has passed into private ownership and although it is beautifully restored and arouses the proper interest of passers-by, its doors are also closed due to the wishes of the owner, who even restored the defensive function of the moat to prevent the nosy parkers from getting too close, so we did not manage to peek even through some windows. So we went through thick and thin, passed the monastery in Sampora (also closed to the public) and stopped in Dolná Mičiná, where the manor house rises majestically on the hill in such a dilapidated state that we even did not manage to find out whether its doors are open or closed to visitors. In fact, we were happy because it was really scary. Fleeing from the haunted manor house, we unexpectedly found ourselves right in the center of Banská Bystrica, where we planned to stop for the legendary buns, which I already wrote about in the blog about Slovak Route 66, but our gourmet safe bet once again hit the closed door. The dispensing window was also closed, as the spot ceased to exist completely. Now, you can taste the legendary buns only if you come across a delivery car known as "Furmanka", but we were not so lucky that day. Hungry and thirsty, we were looking for a reasonable alternative and did not even have to go far, because right in the neighborhood of the closed establishment we came across the open and tempting-looking and smelling premises of the breakfast cafe "Manuele" open all day, but sold out already at lunch. We satisfy our hunger with the last croissant filled with smoked sheep cheese and fresh vegetables and baked pizza tortilla – both were delicious, but due to the prescribed limited Covid regime of operation, we ate these goodies outside. On a rainy and cold November day, we were yearning for something warm to the stomach, and since we had previously resisted hot chocolate in "Manuele“ , there came in handy an open window through which you can buy hot soup according to the daily offer in a cone – original and perfect for a quick hot snack under an umbrella. You take a sip of warm soup, bite off a whole grain cone and the world is a little more beautiful. However, I must say that the main square in Banská Bystrica looked sad and deserted even after that, because many cafes, pastry shops and restaurants also had their doors closed, and they did not even have open their windows, on which one would knock in vain.
The bleakness of the situation can be always saved by a good piece of something sweet, for example in Ružomberok, where you will experience delight in your mouth and subsequently in your soul even behind closed doors. Cafe and pastry shop "Blaho od Aďky" (Delight from Aďka) honestly adheres to the prescribed measures, and although the black color of the district closed its doors, we were still lured by the slogan "We will pack everything for everyone". And so we had a few cakes packed (I recommend raspberry one, which will turn pink the black district for you), a carrot cake that looked so tempting in the showcase that it was simply impossible to resist, two great cappuccinoes and caramel cookies from my beloved confectioner Martin Devečka from Liptovský Mikuláš. For a while it seemed that we would not even leave, because when we were asked by the staff if it would be all, we obstinately answered "No" and asked for other goodies in the boxes, and it was a sin not to have a piece of every cheesecake they had there packed, because in addition to the certainly great taste, they hypnotized us by sophisticated decoration and it was incredibly difficult to resist them. Finally, packed with boxes, we got back into the car and right there, behind the closed doors, so unworthy of the quality of consumed, we immediately embarked on their contents. Just for the case we would want seconds, so that we do not have to cross the borders of different colored districts again:)
I admire all the determined owners not to give up in this difficult time and fight for their cafes, pastry shops, restaurants, which are for them not only a source of livelihood, but often also the fulfillment of a long - standing dream, so I appeal to all lovers of good food and drink - do not be discouraged by their closed doors and climb through the window! Their dream will continue, and you will fulfill yours – about good food and quality drink, which has the power to open even the locked locks of closed doors...
1.7.2021
Surprising places, kind-hearted people, breathtaking nature and carefree driving – these are the attributes of the perfect holiday motorized adventure, and you don't even have to visit the American continent and the famous Route 66. The famous U.S. Highway running from Chicago to Los Angeles measuring 3940 km, was opened in 1926 and is still a sought-after tourist route, although as a highway it was struck off the U.S. Highway System in 1985. However, it constantly attracts hundreds of people eager to experience a great ride by a car or motorcycle and enjoy historic Route 66 in Arizona, whose destination is especially its heart – the city of Kingman, known for its many action and adventure film scenes, less than 170 km from the even more famous Las Vegas. America is undoubtedly the dream of many travelers, but even the Slovak roads are not to be forgotten, despite the fact that there are many jokes about their quality, such as the one that says that Slovak roads are number one, the problem arises if you shift to number two...
The good news, however, is that the worse quality of some road sections is often balanced by what you can find and see around them. And imagine that even in Slovakia you can experience firsthand/car driving on the road with the legendary number 66. It is naturally shorter and it is lined with completely different natural scenery than the American one. It connects the south and north of Slovakia, and thus 3 states, and today runs from Šahy to Tatranská Javorina, passing through 3 self-governing regions and 8 Slovak cities. Its uniqueness lies in the unrepeatable nature that surrounds it and in rare, often unique places: Spa Dudince and Brusno, Archaeological Park Kláštorisko, Tesárske Dúpence (mysterious rock hiding places carved with bare hands in Hontianske Tesáre), architectural gems and historical monuments (castles Bzovík, Dobrá Niva, Pustý hrad, Zvolen Castle, Ľupčiansky Castle, Manor House in Strážky, hunting lodge Hohenlohe), unrepeatable natural locations (the oldest Slovak protected area Príboj, National Park Slovenský Raj, spring of Hron, Vernár Narrow, Hranovnické mountain lake, Dobšinská Ice Cave, Belianska cave), railway uniques (Čiernohorská railway, Telgárt Loop, Chmarošský and Telgárt viaduct), royal towns Krupina, Zvolen, Kežmarok ... In short, something for everyone and everything nice at hand, that is, along the way ...
I gave a try to the Slovak road adventure along this road on the route from Poprad to Banská Bystrica and right from the start I practiced my driving skills on winding turns of Vernár. The disadvantage is that because of your self-concentration you will only marginally perceive the admiring sighs of your fellow travelers, who will be amazed by the beauty of the surrounding nature. When the road straightens back a little, it will be good to calm down with a sip of spring water from the Hron spring, the second longest Slovak river, which rises a few kilometers from the village Telgárt at the foothills of legendary and poets-glorified Kráľova hoľa. Just a little further on the same side of the road, your attention will be attracted by the Chmarošský viaduct, which seems to be the spitting image of the one from the Harry Potter movie. During the summer you can also enjoy a ride on a steam locomotive, but it is much better if you admire it from the original cafe opened in a renovated wagon "Depo cafe“. The interior will transport you in time, and you will again feel like in a movie – this time in the detective story "Murder On The Orient Express". The wagon is furnished with a stylish sense of detail and elegance, and in its shade, on the terrace, with a cup of excellent coffee from Mlsnacava, Banská Bystrica roaster, and homemade cake, you will definitely not want to leave and say goodbye to the view of the unique stone railway bridge. But it would be a mistake to stay only there, because Route 66 will further lead you to another unique place – to the village Šumiac. It's a turn from 66, but you won't regret the extra few kilometers. The Museum of bells and harness bells in the family wooden house of Mikuláš Gigac will literally amaze you with more than 2000 exhibits, with spontaneity and admirable enthusiasm of the guide, who paid full attention to us although his cows needed his care and he even played on jingle bells and harmonica for us. A small wooden house, in which, in addition to bells, he also keeps folklore and historical exhibits, is hidden behind a large gate, but the locals will gladly show you how to get there. The kindness and willingness of them will welcome you wherever you cross the threshold of any door and there are plenty of them here. Šumiac room, Šumiac barns, the first Czechoslovak sauna known as" kupielka", "Treats from Katka "or" Magnetkovo", which is a magical shop in the center of the village, where not only magnets are offered. Their offer of organic products took my breath away (our specialized organic shop should have a lot to learn here) and the fact that in this godforsaken village I would be offered a renowned coffee Ebenica prepared on a top Italian machine, I would never have even dreamed of.
à propos coffee... The Slovak Route 66 is dotted with original coffee shops offering quality coffee, so if you are not attracted by the Slovak cultural and natural heritage, on this trip you will definitely (and surprisingly for me) experience the coffee hoodwink and your caffeine level will rise with satisfaction with every broached kilometer. Most cafes and restaurants that you will meet along the way are associated in the Slovak Route 66 Association and you will recognize them by the same logo, which you will see directly from the road.
Sometimes, however, there is no harm in parking your car in the parking lot of some larger city, through which you will pass, and discover some local specialty, as we managed in Banská Bystrica, in an inconspicuous window with the inscription "Legendary buns“. They offer unique Muránske buns from Zbojská, which also received their own trademark of regional specialty. In addition to the smooth soft dough, these buns are famous for the fact that their filling (sweet or salty) is really rich. And so, willy-nilly, you will lick, from your fingers, fruit, poppy, curd or nut filling which will drag itself out. On top of that, buns sometimes surprise with seasonal flavor (we were lucky with strawberry) or an unusual combination of cracklings and plums or cabbage.
Červená Skala, Muráň castle, Cave of dead bats, metallurgical Museum in Podbrezová, Predajná waterfalls... and I could name many other tourist attractions that are waiting for you along the road with number 66 between Poprad and Banská Bystrica. It is definitely worth going by it with your tin "steed" during the summer, or walk it all over and admire it, and especially taste what you will come across...
28.5.2021
This is how I exclaimed with happiness when the media announced that cafes and restaurants could finally be open. Under the influence of pandemic measures, I have witnessed various strange gastrometamorphoses in the past period, i.e. changes of premises and purpose of gastroshops. The luxurious restaurant has turned into a window fast food (albeit very high quality), a classic fast food into a bakery, a bakery into a delivery car, a cafe into a mobile testing point for performing antigen tests, and even a wine shop into a mail order delivery point... I was a little worried about what it would look like in our gastroindustry in the future, so I have tried, as a responsible and passionate fan of quality gastronomy, to support closed establishments as much as possible, so that they would survive, to enjoy their services again with family and friends, as I often imagined and wished pleadingly. I can not count how many boxes of cakes I ordered from my favorite confectioners on different occasions (or just like that) from Martin Devečka in Liptovský Mikuláš, Kus torty ibid., from Aďka in Ružomberok, from the pastry shop Slávka in Dolný Kubín,... . I don't remember how many different types of pastries I have tried in the window shops at Moment Liptov, U Ňaňa in Ivachnová, in Arkáda or Hladný vlk in Dolný Kubín, how many boxes of donuts I took away home from Just Donut in Žilina or Bodkadonut in Bratislava and how much coffee I took away with me in cafes, which, despite everything, remained open in a limited mode and offered their great coffee to passers-by in paper cups (I will mention for all of them Cafe Bar Central in Ružomberok, thanks to their cappuccino and cinnamon rolls they made the lockdown somehow bearable). Everywhere I rounded the amount for my purchase significantly up, tearing records in a generous tips, and then I usually gave the purchased goods to loved ones and friends in order to make them happy at least with something small at the time of the lockdown.
A propos tips - originally it is actually thanks for the service provided and the expression of your satisfaction, but it has its own unwritten rules, which it is advisable to familiarize yourself with, because not everywhere it is understood in the same price ranges. As it is said – different country, different manners, and the same applies to the tip. In our country and neighboring Austria, its amount corresponds to 10% of the spend, in the USA 15-20%, in Asian countries it is not given at all, because they would consider it an insult, since there the quality of food and service is taken for granted, in Egypt, on the contrary, they expect your generous bakshish everywhere. Wherever you are, before you give this little attentiveness, take a good look at the bill, because some countries have tips charged directly in the price (Norway), and elsewhere you will be charged a special tip for sitting, setting, or music, if there is a live band playing and then there is no need to pay them extra. Not only geographical location affects the amount of the tip, it also depends on the type of restaurant, the more expensive and luxurious the restaurant is, the higher tip is expected. If you pay by card, it is expected to leave a few euros on the table or tell the waiter in advance to count the final price increased by you. I honestly admit that in recent months I have violated the mathematical principles of rounding from 5 up and I was rounding any price up a lot, but for the expression of gratitude in the eyes of the service it was really worth it.
Although I am grateful to the above-mentioned establishments for their effort not to deprive us of the gastro experience even during lockdown, let's admit that it was not exactly what we were used to, because the experience in a pleasant environment, with captivating music, being served by smiling staff turned into a "take away" at best, when you just took the yummy home, unpacked and served there with due respect, and at worst, ate it right out of the box in the car, in the parking lot, or on a bench in the city. Exceptional and quality food has thus been deprived of the added value of service, so I can't wait to turn the windows into doors again, and the boxes into cultivated spaces that belong to good food. The space itself will often tell you what to expect from food – fresh flowers on the table are a sign that even in the kitchen they will work with fresh and not artificial/frozen ingredients, modern design will tell you about modern foodstyling, which you can find on the plate, homely environment indicates that you will get the food "like from a grandmother". The second important point of the gastro service is the waiting stuff – clean uniforms, well-groomed hair, a polite but not servile smile, professionalism in serving drinks and food is exactly what you will pay extra for at the end with a clear conscience, in contrast to the waitress in jeans and a vulgar T-shirt squatting at the front door with a cigarette in her hand, who is staring at you from the ground, because you will obviously shorten her cigarette break and because of you, she will have to return reluctantly to the spot, hand you the menu, unable to explain what your chosen meal consists of. Unfortunately, I have countless similar experiences from the period before the corona crisis and so now I will only hope that such "gastro" establishments have not managed to survive it and I will have to choose only from restaurants that are serious about quality food and services.
And therefore, after the great announcement mentioned in the introduction, an important decision awaited me – where will my postcovid steps lead first? Several scenarios swarmed in my head – indulge in luxury in a restaurant Chez Balzac in Bratislava, which has expanded its operation with "haute cuisine" requiring a special dress code, set out for cafe road trip, or simply enjoy open terraces one by one... Finally, I decided to take a little bit of each.
The very first, I enjoyed Martin coffee shop Bonno 23, hidden from view in a cozy courtyard, a stone's throw from the Martin main square. In the shade of old buildings there are stored a few tables that invite you to a little rest in a busy day with great cakes, quality coffee and excellent homemade lemonades. But what struck me the most was the homely atmosphere, the friendly attitude of the elderly lady and the willingness to give you whatever you wish. That heartfelt manhood will surely get you too, if you take the time to stand out from the crowd in Martin's streets. Right next door, on the Main Street, a big "F" pops up on you for fast food, but a "fancy" fast food. Modern original interior, creative serving, exotic flavors in hamburgers and hot dogs and a daily lunch menu composed of original cooked dishes prepared from Slovak meat, their own vegetable and meat broths, offering vegan and gluten free alternatives. Definitely, don't expect burnt oil and a hamburger with the cheapest ketchup with frozen fries at this place. Get ready for a quick snack (on your table within 7 minutes) prepared with quality ingredients from local suppliers, served with their own pastries and original flavors tuned to detail (chicken curry wrap with mango was simply divine). In addition, a nice service willing to advise with the choice even at lunch peak and the dessert, which they probably pack with you, because their portions are more than generous and you just will not have space for it, but to leave there, for example, strawberry Eclair would be clearly a sin. If you have a desire for a really classic quickie in the center of Martin, do not miss the inconspicuous stand labeled "fresh Langos". Through the window you will see how the loaves of yeast dough rise happily, so that on request they are pulled out into the shape of a Langos, fried in front of your eyes and filled with whatever you want. Crispy, fresh and sinfully good...
In the enthusiastic postcovid rediscovery of places where I like to eat, the winning restaurant is, so far, Pinus in Demänová, which is a part of Demänová resort, where everyone will come to their senses. For visitors there is a pleasant environment created in harmony with nature thanks to the use of natural materials, wellness, climbing wall, comfortable relaxation area by the pond with a fountain and huge red fish, fun center for small, bakery with sourdough pastries, local food store called aptly Kriváň, event tent, if you would like a big celebration after long months of party abstinence... But above all, this great restaurant in a modern design, with quality food and fresh flowers on the table offers what has been denied to us, gourmets, for many months - extremely nice service, which will answer for your every request "of course" with a wide under-mask smile and in a few minutes turn your wish into reality. I am sure that it is for this reason that I will stop for their caramel gnocchi with fresh fruit on the way to the Low Tatras again and I recommend you to do so, too.
I think that the consequences of the corona crisis will be heard for a long time in many spheres of human being, but the negative ones in the field of eating and quality food can be helped to cut down a little, if, like me, you sometimes go to some surviving catering establishment for a bite, and in addition to your own pleasure, you will contribute to the recovery of nice people who have dedicated their lives to honest work with the intention of pleasing others. And do not forget about a small tip according to the above rules, because those who deserve it will certainly gladly and fully compensate you with their services:)
26/07/2020
The saga is the designation for a large-scale novel describing the ordinary life stories of several generations of one family. In the case of D1, it is an extensive story too, involving several generations of Slovaks waiting for its completion, although I must say that nothing is happening in this saga on D1. And I do not mean only "construction works" that have been going on for several decades and it is still somehow not possible to connect Košice and Bratislava. I rather mean that when you are already driving through the lanes of completed sections and tunnels (hoping that they will not be closed for maintenance), from D1 you can see and experience only little of what our wonderful homeland has to offer. However, you can just use one of the 65 motorway exits from time to time, and after only a few kilometers, unprecedented things begin to happen. I have always wondered what kind of building it is on the rock opposite Zamarovce rest area, which is a mandatory stop for us in the middle of the way from / to Bratislava. If you exit D1 near Trenčín and continue to Zamarovce, you will come across an amazing pilgrimage site in Skalka, beautifully restored and charged with mysticism. My attention at 130 km of speed is also attracted by the ruins of Považský Castle or Beckov Castle. And I'll tell you, it's worth it to exit our D1 because of them. They are shrouded in ancient legends (about which you can read on the site on the information boards), and their turbulent destinies will remind you how ephemeral material goods and our being are. However, the views from their interiors to the surroundings will enchant you and lead you to ideas for further trips around our beautiful country. It is worth to visit of course also Trenčiansky Castle, the spa town of Pieštany, about Liptov attractions, for which it is worth to exit D1 in Liptovský Mikuláš or Liptovský Ján, I wrote last time, the panorama of the Tatras will entice you to exit the motorway near Poprad and the silhouette of Spišský Castle near Spišské Podhradie... Since it will undoubtedly take a while before the D1, whose construction began in 1972, reaches its planned destination on the Slovak-Ukrainian border near the village of Záhor, we can, in the meantime, discover what the exits from it hide throughout its 376-km completed section and we can be pleasantly surprised by the beauty of inconspicuous Slovak villages and towns.
With an empty stomach it will be, however, difficult. Fortunately, relying on a unified gas station range of baguettes and baked sweet pastries or fast food is not necessary, as you are often only a few kilometers away from an unexpected gourmet experience that you will want to repeat every time you go around. Near Ilava, it is worthwhile to get off the motorway for a while, especially in the summer months, because there are two great ice cream shops at hand – one better than the other. In Nová Dubnica, in sleepy housing estate from the 50s of the 20th century, you will come across an ice cream shop like in the heart of Italy. Their ice cream is made from Italian ingredients and therefore tastes so. You have an impression that they offered you with a beautifully cooled cream - soft and smooth as silk. In short, it is "Velice" (Too) good and I fully approve the name of this inconspicuous ice cream Eldorado. And in the neighborhood Dubnica nad Váhom you have to visit "Suavé gelato", because you can't easily get such an exceptional ice cream anywhere else. Absolute creaminess and at the same time lightness complemented by authentic taste – this is, in short, ice cream heaven! If you would not like to cool down, but on the contrary to eat something good warm, the same address applies, only opposite. Cozy interior and friendly atmosphere in "Čarovná špajza" (Magic pantry) will literally drag you in. And then just let yourself be lured by sandwiches for breakfast, interesting and out-of-the-ordinary daily lunch menu, tempting-looking cookies from Trenčín pastry shop "Madame patisserie" for an afternoon cup of coffee, or an original menu, à la carte, for an extraordinary dinner. The restaurant is friendly to children, dogs, internet maniacs (free wifi) and anyone who can appreciate a frank approach to the processing of local food with an emphasis on balance and harmony of taste and health benefits of gourmet enjoyment. Here, the customer is alpha and omega, and his wish is an order fulfilled with a smile on the face.
Personally, I am extremely glad that the motorway ends near Žilina, because willy-nilly, you can refresh yourself here in two unique places while waiting in a traditional traffic jam. At the intersection near the Tesco Hypermarket, you simply must turn and look for an inconspicuous stand with Belgian fries "Los Potatos“. These fries are prepared from quality potatoes using the traditional Belgian double roasting method and served with a sauce of your choice, each of which is prepared self-made, and honestly – whichever one you choose, your portion of fries, served in a specially designed cone, will get a new unique dimension. The only thing I have to criticize them for is that I will have to wait until September for the next portion due to the August pause of the stall operator. I hope that the well-deserved summer rest will give him the desire to open the window on his food truck again in autumn and I am already looking forward to crispy and gold-baked french fries, which I will dip with pleasure in ketchup sauce full of tomatoes.
The second place in Žilina, which is definitely not to be missed by any lover of another Žilina legend, is "Cod bar“ in an unusual place of a football stadium. Do not be shy to take advantage of the extensive parking lot for football fans and enthusiasts (moreover, free and at hand by the main road) and boldly let your car breathe a sigh of relief while you transport yourself in time to a real socialist milk bar for 10 (or rather 20) decagrams of cod salad with a roll. But the truth is that you have a lot more on offer at the Cod bar. More salads (not only from fish, including the classic parisien, egg and pepperoni), more types of pastries (including the healthier wholemeal and cereal), sausages with mustard, snack soups, fried fish fillets, and the socialist assortment is complemented by vinea, kofola, horalka/lina/mila/kofila and the famous socialist peanut crisps. Nostalgia will be dispelled by the opportunity to buy a T-shirt or bag with the logo of the famous Žilina brand company and, of course, to choose and buy in stock from its complete range of products, many of which are unavailable, and certainly not so nicely together, in ordinary stores.
From the other side of Košice, I am glad that the motorway ends at Ivachnová, because I would exit it anyway because of the restaurant "Kozí vŕšok" (Goat Hill) and especially bakery and meat production "U Ňaňa“. Fantastic pastries, sweet and salty, original sourdough bread and far away smelling meat products produced on site, supplemented by quality food from local suppliers – all these are the reasons why I always drive off the motorway a bit before it actually ends and often shorten the wait in a standard traffic jam before Ružomberok.
The Zero kilometer of our motorway is in Bratislava-Pečňa, but for me the Zero kilometer, where I start my journey on the D1, is in Bratislava at Štúrova 8, in the craft bakery "Fleur Bakery" where I'll stock up goodies for the whole journey. Among the mandatory equipment there belongs clearly kouign amann (read kunaman), which is actually a croissant coated in sugar and then baked in butter. The secret of the unbeatable taste of this Breton pastry is in the ingredients used here. The result is a double buttery taste with a crispy caramelized surface and a fluffy puffing inside. And to make it taste like in the heart of Breton region, they use exclusively unique and extra-high-quality Normandy butter Isigny and even higher-quality French flour. You will definitely not resist to eat it right in the bakery, but definitely have a few kunamans for the trip and also a Roman pizza or an original foccacia and you will definitely not die of hunger while exploring the D1 exit corners, and if you do, so only of well-being. Without crossing national borders, hanging around our D1, this summer I have already tasted real Italian gelato, pizza and the beloved foccacia, authentic Breton pastries, Belgian fries and at the same time I was discovering my own homeland. What more could you ask for? Perhaps only its completion.
In conclusion, I can't give a miss to one joke: "the TV newspaper in 2263: today the last meters of the D1 motorway from Bratislava to Košice were completed. The almost 300-year-old building has been included in the UNESCO cultural heritage for over 100 years. Experts predict that the motorway will last for thousands of years, mainly due to the fact that cars have not driven on the ground for 50 years." So let's pack the rucksacks and drive D1!
18.06.2020
Liptov is undoubtedly a beautiful region hiding an unprecedented wealth of amazing secluded, but also tourist notorious places. Last weekend I had the opportunity to take a close look at this wealth and I feel that I have completely succumbed to its charm. In addition to great experiences in Liptovsky Ján, where you can go to the Svätojánska lookout tower, visit the underground and auction a freshly minted coin in Mincovníčkovo, take a bath in the thermal spring Kaďa, fill a bottle with a healing mineral water, walk in the park full of miniatures of the most famous Slovak unique objects, drink a shot of juniper brandy with a guide at the end of the tour of Stanišovská cave, I also visited Liptovský Hrádok and Liptovský Mikuláš, because with an empty stomach such treasures are hard to find. And suprisingly, it was there that I discovered the greatest Liptov treasures. In Liptovský Mikuláš, your treasure hunt should definitely lead you to the cafe Archcaffe where they naturally make good coffee, but the real treasure is hidden in the showcase with cakes from Martin Devečka. His desserts attract attention with absolutely perfect and sophisticated look, and their taste captures the heart of absolutely everyone – from a child to the most demanding gourmet. Softness, lightness, creaminess and crunchiness in every piece, righteousness of ingredients and thoughtful combination of their tastes – that makes his desserts exceptional and from the point of view of confectionery demands they are simply a unique treasure, for which I will personally travel every time I get the opportunity. By the way, his caramel cream puff, in my opinion, should become part of our state treasure and would definitely deserve a trademark similar to the Slovak bryndza, skalický trdelník, žitavská paprika, zázrivský korbáčik, Bratislava rolls, or Spišský sausages. Cream puff in Liptov only from Devečka!
You can also have breakfast in Archcaffe, but I prefer breakfast experts in Moment Liptov. In addition to the fantastic Aurelica coffee, they offer a rich selection for a proper and right breakfast with pastries, which they bake themselves on site. Sourdough bread in classic, but also unprecedented flavors (black coal, elderberry and strawberry, purple carrot...), ciabatta, focaccia or absolutely perfect brioche accompany breakfast goodies prepared from ingredients from local and verified sources, which you can buy in their store right away. In addition, you have the opportunity to sin by sinfully good cakes from the popular confectionery workshop Kus torty (Piece of cake), led by the talented and enthusiastic pastry chef Petra Urbanová. Her cream puff, pavlovas, cream cakes, tartalets or cheesecakes will make your day 100% more pleasant, whether you enjoy them right in the cafe Moment with great coffee (moreover, skillfully prepared by talented baristas and served by the nicest service I have ever met) or packed in the comfort of your own home, or at a picnic, for which you can get everything you need in this place – and in a moment:) Excellent cheese, meat products, pates, jams, nut creams, salty and sweet healthy treats, fresh fruits and vegetables - all in organic quality from local suppliers, or the best Slovak and Czech producers awarded by the highest positions in national and international quality and taste rankings.
For lunch after a hike or a lavish dinner go to Liptovský Hrádok, to Magdalena Zai restaurant in the original mansion converted into a hotel Grandcastle. Here, they know how to prepare well-known classics with nobility and tune them into a gourmet top. Seasonal menu changing according to the availability and freshness of ingredients will offer for everyone perfectly combined tastes in generous portions. But leave a place for the iconic Magdalena Zai dessert that you can't taste anywhere else. And you can believe me that it's worth it, because it was created by already mentioned Martin Devečka, my Liptov confectionery hero.
I spent three days in Liptov and it is incredible how many travel and gourmet treasures I managed to discover in such a small piece of land during that time. I am already looking forward to what I will come across if I continue to explore this beautiful region often associated with our national hero Jánošík. I haven't found his treasure yet, but his successor yes. Vivat to Devešík! (Devečka a.k.a Jánošík)
07/02/2020
You will probably needlessly look for the word "gourmelling" in dictionaries. I don't dare to say I invented it, but the fact is that I haven't come across it by any other language user yet. Gourmelling refers to gourmand travelling, thus travelling in order to obtain a gourmand experience, preferably positive. I distinguish two types of gourmelling. Travelling with other priority goal connected with the visit to a famous gourmet place and travelling explicitly for the sake of a gourmet experience. The first type may be, for example, holiday, business trip or medical check in the far corner of our/other country and at the same time you insert into your program a dish at a particular, pre-spotted place. The second, for example, is the willingness to travel even a few tens or hundreds of kilometers, just to have lunch or dinner in some special and exceptional gourmet place. Gourmelling provides an opportunity not only to eat well and to explore new places, but it often is associated with almost scientific verification of gourmet rumours about good food. Such activity requires preparation and good planning. First of all, it is necessary to be constantly "on the ball", so that you do not miss any information about what is going on in the world of gastronomy. The source of such information today is mainly the media - specialized magazines, TV shows dedicated to travelling and cooking, and, of course, diverse internet sites, forums, blogs, etc.. But even the "it is said" method is not bad. In any case, your eyes and ears should be kept aware and any interesting information should be noted down in a special notebook. This information must then be verified, and here comes the stage of targeted search for information on a particular site and comparing it to as many different sources as possible. If such information turns out to be true and interesting, there comes the planning stage of the trip. First, there will be evaluated the availability of the site and the possibility of visiting it while travelling somewhere else. If the site is out of our normal and planned journeys, we need to find a reason why to travel there. Sometimes it could be a nice trip with the family or dinner with friends, birthdays and name days (not only your own ones) could also serve their turn like a variety of another holidays such as Valentine's day or Children's or Mothers' day, or some other exceptional days, such as anniversaries or getting good school reports. Believe or not, the reason can be always found:) Only at the very end there comes the most important part - the visit itself to a restaurant/café/pastry shop/bistro and rigorous tasting completed with photo-documentation and subsequent evaluation. My last gourmand experience was a visit to Magdaléna Zai restaurant at the hotel "Grandcastle" in Liptovský Hrádok. Great reviews, excellent recommendations, tempting photos and an interesting menu. It should be checked, and best with someone with whom you would like to spend more time, because the travelling there and back takes some time taking of it an advantage and opportunity for a nice chatting that otherwise is not possible because of lack of time. The trip is planned, guest passenger and co-gourmand is ready - nothing prevented us from hitting the road (not even the terrible wind and snowstorm). In Liptovský Hrádok, we were welcomed by a pleasant historical environment of ancient castle and manor house, which is fabled (as castles usually are) by interesting historical facts and legends. The castle was built in the 14th century and was originally supposed to serve as one of the watchtowers of the famous Via Magna Road, which was a major post and transport link. One of the owners of the castle was also Magdaléna Zai (she lived there 23 years - the longest period of all the owners), about who it is said that she was five times married, each time not longer than four years, and all husbands are said to have died naturally. The castle was in the 17th century even safe keeping the St. Stephen's Crown. After fires, natural disasters and harsh treatment of the castle and contiguous manor house they became a ruin, and until 2002, when the private owner ventured into the extensive reconstruction, they had been deteriorating. Thanks to the sensitive and professional restoration the castle has been converted into a hotel, part of which constitutes also far-famed restaurant. We have therefore decided, in the framework of gourmelling, to verify its good reputation. As a starter we had, and we highly recommend, parfait of goose liver accompanied by apricot chutney and camomile granola with nuts, all served with toasts of wholegrain bread of their own production. When choosing the main course, we hesitated between duck breast and deer back, finally we tasted both dishes, and even then we could not decide which one was better, because both were exceptional. Duck breast was served on celery choucroute (celery à la sauerkraut) with pickled rowanberries and duck fat potatoes confit. The meat of the deer's back was brilliantly prepared, seasoned with rose hip sauce and acoompanied with curd dumplings. I think that somewhere here my love for the game meat was born, what I had had no idea of until then. The icing on the cake in this case was the mango, which formed the core of the "yoghurt sphere" - a dessert from yoghurt foam in white chocolate and pudding from tonka beans. Even the classic chocolate fondant with vanilla ice cream did not disappoint us. We were a little sorry that we couldn't taste their famous Magdaléna Zai dessert with original Parisian cream, but at least we have a reason to come back there. The service was pleasant, the chef skilled, pleasant environment, discreet music and a nice company. This gourmelling experience was worth travelling. And what do I have in the viewfinder for the next one? Well, it looks like Elite Restaurant in Nová Dubnica nad Váhom which has a good reputation to be verified.... All I have to do is to find a reason and the gourmelling team will set off for another gourmand experience:)
3.12.2019
That's exactly what you'll experience when you overpass the doorstep at Bratislava bistro St. Germain in Rajská Street. Behind its door you really dive into the true Parisian atmosphere of local bistros which were created in the times of Belle-Époque in the heart of St-Germain des Près district and which were the center of intellectual activity in the post-war period, when in the famous cafés "Café de Flore" and "Les Deux Magots" there used to sit Ernest Hemingway, Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir, Serge Gainsbourg. Cafés have so far enjoyed a great popularity especially among tourists who want to grab something from the atmosphere of their previous gone-by fame. The popularity of St.- Germain has disappeared from artistic and intellectual circles today, but its charm and inimitable spirit have been rediscovered by gallerists, designers and home architects. Cafés got out of the way of traditional bistros and "brasseries", of which, undoubtedly, the most famous is" Brasserie Lipp" or "La Coupole". In their menu you can find the merely-clear classics of Parisian gastronomy - onion soup, stewed beef, duck leg confit, sandwiches "croque monsieur", flambé pancakes and dessert "crème brulée" - second to none. I love this part of Paris, and I do not consider myself an artist, nor an intellectual, and certainly not a designer. But St-Germain is also a paradise for gourmands not only because of the above mentioned gastronomic "temples", where a visit is for a gourmand like visit to Mecca for a Muslim - mandatory:) Boulevard Saint-Germain, rue de Seine and rue de Buci are simply places where the tastes and mastery of the cooks will take you to paradise. Therefore, I could not resist visiting Bratislava Bistro St. Germain, to make sure with my own eyes and taste cells whether they chose this name by chance or they fully deserve it. Interior, furniture including all the accessories, flooring and beautiful decadent motto in Slovak and French will not leave you in doubt that inspiration can't have been found anywhere else than in the famous Parisian district. Quiet music in the chanson spirit perfectly underlines the Parisian illusion. But the main is hidden in their menu which lifted up my French heart: quiche, mousse of goat cheese, sandwich Croque Monsieur, tartiflette, duck rillettes, flambé pancakes and ... almond crème brûlée! I did not resist and like Amélie of Montmartre from the eponymic famous film I dabbed with a spoon into the caramel crust and from below sweet caramel shards I picked the absolutely perfect almond cream and it was a real delight - I completely forgot that I was not in Paris and only a confused expression on waiter's face reminded me that it would be perhaps better to speak with her in our mother language. I can conclude that Bratislava Bistro St. Germain is worthy of its name and it cannot even reside at a better address - Paradise Street 7, because it is the address where spoiled taste buds are very close to being in paradise.
06.11.2019
Rainy and cold autumn days tend to be for many of us challenging - we are threatened by colds and viruses, the sunshine and daylight are rapidly on the wane, cloudy sky plays up to gloomy thoughts and the body would prefer cuddle under the quilt and sleep through the rain and cold until the spring ... It would be but a shame, because you would have lost a crackling fire in the fireplace, appeasing drumming of drops of rain on windows and especially the great tastes of autumn that in the spring will be just nice remembrance... Pumpkins, carrots, ducks, nuts, apples, pears, chestnuts, all this is here and now in the best quality and it would be really a sin to sleep through it... That in a flat after a hard day at work you don't have any fireplace and by no means thinking of the lengthy cooking of autumn delights? Luckily you can have it all thanks to enthusiastic and talented cooks, waiters and sommeliers and if they are affiliated with unrepeatable atmosphere of an ancient mansion, your challenging day can have an unexpectedly pleasant end. One of such places, without a doubt, is the Kubínyi mansion in Vyšný Kubín and its restaurant "Amalia". The restaurant offers each week a carefully prepared menu based on the principles of seasonality and locality and although you can choose from just a few dishes, it will be difficult, because all of them would be worth of tasting. As a starter I recommend to ask for their homemade bread with fennel served on the warm stone with an incredibly crispy crust, little bowl of homemade butter and autumn gloominess would start quickly dissipating. For more demanding and sophisticated gourmands, they, in turn, offer for example raviola stuffed with jerky baked goose meat, supplemented with dill puree and potatoes. Also the main dish will impress enthusiasts of the autumn tastes in non-traditional connection with the Italian classics - gnocchi browned in butter, covered in pumpkin puree, supplemented with roasted crispy pumpkin seeds, parmesan cheese and glazed seasonal vegetables. The dessert will certainly be the perfect cake icing of the autumn evening, after which the cold autumn weather will seem to be more bearable, or even romantic. Will you do with chocolate cake whose basis is made of chocolate-nutty flan with a rich layer of chocolate foam and subtle pear puree hidden inside, served with pear crisps or maybe you prefer the carrot flan with nuts, and puree of roasted apples and milk ice cream? Typical autumn menu with Italian roots significantly improves a negative image of the cold and rainy autumn day, because along with the characteristic autumn taste it brings, thanks to the reminiscence about the holiday in Italy, a piece of summer and your body will be grateful for the supply of quality and health-beneficial food with beneficial effect for the soul as well. The merit of it makes young, but extremely talented chef who cooks with the heart and gains your heart not only by his cooking mastership, but also by his charm and lovable smile, when he personally comes to make sure that every guest liked what he prepared. Caring and helpful service is ready to meet all your requirements, wine-conscious sommelier advises you with a selection of the best wine suitable to your dish, but at the same time fitting your personal preferences. Overall good impression is also enhanced by the atmosphere of historical space which is brought sensitively in harmony with interior accessories and original period works of art. And not missing the fire in a huge historic fireplace where crackling flames decently disperse darkness of early autumn evening and create home coziness. Autumn spleen just wouldn't dare to conquer you here...
11.10.2019
"Life is not about the number of breaths, but about the moments that take our breath away." said Austrian poet Richard von Schaukal. I positively agree. Due to the fate we sometimes dispose of too short time on the Earth, but short lives can also be lived intensively and fully and sometimes it may happen that such a life is finally nicer and richer than the life of a man who can live on the Earth longer, but sort of in vain. In the spirit of this philosophy, despite all my health restrictions, I recently went to one of the top Slovak restaurants "Aphrodite" in Čereňany. Besides having another gastronomic experience, I wanted to check whether even such a prestigious restaurant can be friendly to people with strict dietary rules. Many restaurants in fact offer ready-made and verified by years (and maybe even outdated and dusty) menu, and are not willing to make any adjustments in it - take what we have or leave. Therefore I decided to submit this famous restaurant, laureate of many primacies, to the test of friendliness and willingness to do anything for their guests. "Afrodita" has deservedly been for several years the top of the Slovak gastronomic scene - ingredients of high quality from domestic breeding, quality food, quality service... The healthy part of our expedition was safe and sure to get the best, and the less healthy one hoped she wouldn't go off hungry. The service didn't disappoint us, perfectionism of the chef in the running of the restaurant was amazing, food without lapses, and the original dessert was just the icing on the perfect cake. Exactly as expected, based on the previous positive experience. However that day I was there for the first time with an infinitely long list of food which I have, according to doctors, to avoid and so I asked perhaps a hundred questions when choosing from the menu and I always got sweetheart and qualified answer. The waiter was perfectly familiar not only with the composition of individual meals, but also with alternative options of their preparing. He even suggested to me himself how the dish could be prepared as light as possible and in accordance with my requirements. Since I had been emphasizing the necessity to prepare a meal for me without onion and garlic, as little freebie I did not get like all the other guests smoked salmon tartar, but a nice slice of ham, and so I didn't have to give up a small appetizer on the house. As the main dish, I was prepared steamed juicy chicken breast without any spice, and it is a mystery for me how it could taste so great. As a side dish I got pea-potato puree and steamed vegetables prepared just accurately - not raw, but still crunchy. When choosing a dessert I tormented the chef himself. Unfortunately my dietary rules did not fit to none of their menu sweetness, and so the chef decided to prepare something exclusively for me - from the original menu pears macerated in grade-level brandy with cinnamon and lemon curd cream, I was prepared the pear stewed in sweet pickle (without the cinnamon and the alcohol of course). The pear interior was got rid of core maintaining its beautiful shape and put into the gently sweetened curd cream like into the cloudie. Even seeing this dessert, created to order, enthralled me, and its taste took my breath away. Simple yet perfect. Not wasting words - "He who can, does." and if, moreover, he does it by heart and with a smile, he brings precious pleasure also to others. "Aphrodite" passed the test excellent, without losing a single point:) We can't influence the time which was given to us, but the way we live it is exclusively up to us, and therefore I recommend everybody to find every day a little piece of paradise and blissfulness and enjoy it bottoms up, to the last drop, even if it would last only a few short moments and despite disfavourable circumstances. And sometimes, when the fate passes you an experience, do not hesitate, forget about limits and restrictions and swoop down on it to meet it holding your breath. The moments you will experience will certainly be worth it and they will become a permanent memory of a beautifully lived life.
Liptov certainly offers a number of attractions for tourists and gourmands as well. Both groups of visitors sometimes surely need to solve out the question of having breakfast in town. I belong to them as well - although my health condition doesn't allow me to be a gourmand nor a tourist, after morning blood-taking on empty stomach I need to solve that outside-home breakfast question too. One of the possibility is to take with you your own provision and the more adventurous one is to suppose that every town is able after all to meet these requirements. In Ružomberok the chance is fifty-fifty. If we omit the classic in the form of hospital snack bar with the offer of salads, hot dogs and sandwiches, there will be left in this town two places offering the breakfast menu and nota bene before 8 a.m. As the first open in town (at 7:15) is the bistro on A. Hlinka square "Chez les moustique" – “At mosquitoes". The solid entrance gate hides romantic terrace and even more romantic interior with pleasant, non-disturbing music and candle smell. Charming atmosphere will devour you and tune in nice breakfast and so you immerse in the breakfast menu. Your ravishment is rising because there are toasts, croissants, baguettes, sandwiches, even exotic lavash bread which you can fill with what you want according to your choice from ham, mozzarella, fresh basil or rucoa to pesto, parmesan or more healthy humus and avocado. You can also choose from the breakfast yoghurt with oat flakes or granola and fruit or you can take your time choosing from three types of breakfast porridge. The curve of my ravishment got to the top after having seen Parisian breakfast on the menu which was my immediate choice, but then the ravishment and enthusiasm curve started to decline little by little due to the slowliness of the service and the bistro with the charming atmosphere started to change into sleepy hollow with extra slow (though very nice) waiter whose unskillfulness grew into a catastrophe when he, while preparing hot drinks, spilled everything he could on the places where it even was not possible. And the curve continued declining very fast especially after I could finally bite into "croissant" – to be precise - grilled oven-ready roll baked the day before in a supermarket known for "quality for a super price". Stuffed baguette from the same source and of the same "quality" didn't save the situation and the last point of this gourmand deception was slightly acid soya milk (evidently being opened for several days) in decaf cappuccino. Even the peaceful atmosphere and the servility of the slow waiter did not prevent the disappointment from the spoiled late breakfast.
However, in Ružomberok you have at the tips of your fingers a lifebuoy in the form of a café "Déjà vu". To get there you have only to run down the hill from "the mosquitoes". It opens at 7:30 and also offers a simple breakfast menu - a croissant with butter and jam or nutella or savory pastries stuffed with ham and cheese. And of course, perfect Italian coffee Bazaara (also in the decaffeinated version or with a vegetable milk, if your body does not tolerate lactose). After the previous experience, we were more cautious, and until we rejoiced over the menu, we rather waited for what an incredibly kind and amiable waitress would bring to us on the table. This time, however, our curve of ravishment began to rise to dizzying heights, because of delicious, buttery, savoury and crunchy croissant that you do not find so easily even in the heart of Paris, the coffee, especially the one with coconut foam, enhanced us into the celestial heights and the quality of homemade jam just brought the breakfast to harmony with the impression of perfection and well-being, that had been evoked by the cozy and cushy interior of the café. Your attention couldl be captivated also by a discreet candy bar containing cakes made by local renowned confectioners who regularly sell here their delicious desserts. If you are lucky, and behind the glass of the bar you spot "craquelin" cake, do not hesitate any moment and let it pack and take it with you. Besides enjoying your royal breakfast, you will have also royal dessert after lunch.
On the roads in the Liptov region it is better to backpack some BeBe biscuits, giving you energy for the whole morning (according to the ad), when you will in vain try to find some other place in Ružomberok where you could possibly start the day....
03.09.2019
If the measurable unit of luxury was one luxury, megaluxuries could express the degree of luxury that you can afford in the form of a luxurious car or apartment, kiloluxuries would be used for the adequate number of hotel and restaurant stars, a number of basic luxuries would undoubtedly fit for the jewellery, luxurious bags or shoes, but in the context of my teacher salary I would most commonly use mililuxuries to express the amount of baguettes and croissants that I can afford to buy in a Paris bakery "boulangerie”. Indeed, for fellow countrymen an "ordinary" bread roll from a French bakery is not a very cheap issue, although we, of course, can afford it. Moreover, and I must underline this, for one or two euros you get first class luxury goods. However, if you add a fact that you are in Paris and you had to somehow get there, and also you had to find an accommodation there, mililuxuries immediately change to kiloluxuries which, in turn, you can't afford that often. To my great pleasure I have found that true French baguettes and croissants I can afford much more often than I had so far thought and it is not thanks to an enormous increase of the amount on my account. However, with all modesty, I can afford them at least as often as my mandatory two-months regular check-ups at the doctor in Bratislava are held. That is to say that I have discovered a true treasure there - a truly genuine boulangerie which is a part of the restaurant and café Chez Balzac. Croissants, especially the almond ones, are simply amazing, but even this adjective does not express sufficiently the taste and quality of their baguettes, which are FANTASTIQUES! And I mean it in the true Parisian sense. It is actually no wonder - the finest ingredients, such as flour from the French happy mills undoubtedly is, and top-level Franco-German machines are a guarantee that you will get luxurious quality. If the input costs are French, it cannot be otherwise in the output prices of the products, and therefore it needs to be measured by my new physical quantity - in mililuxuries. But believe me, spending a few euros for that sumptuous breakfast once in a blue moon pays off. Even if you don't have the time for real Parisian breakfast on the terrace of their café, you should at least on your way around buy one of the mentioned fantastic baguettes to take away and do it exactly as the Parisians do it - immediately after coming out from their boulangerie they nip off "crouton" - the tip of the baguette and enjoy the sound of breaking crust and the taste which make them get a move on to enjoy this gem in the comfort of their homes appropriately with something good. This is actually the only example when the French, for whom the dining is almost a sacred ritual at every meal, eat in the street and, what's more, when walking. And it was once again confirmed that happiness can take a really various form. It may also take the form of the joy when my blood will be taken again in Bratislava:)
23.10.2018
... it is sung in a well-known folk song, and I can point out with pride of the Oravian girl that after a long time it is true again. Orava is a beautiful region which has inspired the whole pleiad of writers, poets, painters and musicians - briefly all artistic souls who sensitively perceive the beauty of nature, the souls of people working hard on small fields and boldness of their life. However, the last century with its industrial modernization obliterated the charm of tradition and transformed this region to a forgotten and slowly evolving corner of Slovakia, just hardly catching up with the rest of the world and a dab hand people took their heel to use their talent often far beyond the beautiful Orava mountains. The last decade, fortunately, has brought a new wind into Orava hollows where people rediscover the magical nooks of silence, mushrooms and breathtaking nature views, what is becoming a rarity of the highest price in the urban polluted world. If you add to the experience prepared free of charge and in any season by mother nature also the gourmand experience, you can upgrade the return to the roots and tradition to the experience with aristocratic genealogy. A great example is the renovation of the manor house Kubínyi in Vyšný Kubín which includes the construction and providing of quality services in the form of stylish accommodation and restaurant. Tradition and past breathes on you at every step and yet it is dressed in a modern coat, so it meets even the highest demands of today's man pampered with comfort. The restaurant is located in a beautiful setting which creates an inspirational space where through the glass wall you see Vyšnokubínske rocks and the majestic Choč, exactly as Hviezdoslav, who was born here, used to see it. Also on the menu you can find traditional ingredients processed in a modern way and combined into new flavours. You have only a few dishes to choose from, but they are prepared precisely and they surprise with taste combinations. The connection of salmon and gin, pork terrine with pistachios and chutney as a starter, or mushrooms and chestnuts with cream risotto and parmesan as a main dish or crème brûlée, alternatively Pavlova, as a dessert gives a hint that the chef gained his skills in a foreign country. However, a loaf of homemade bread and whipped butter at the beginning convinced me that he can transform his foreign experience into a modern dish with respect to local traditions and ingredients. As the evidence there are meals based on pork flitch, duck and trout from Vyšný Kubín, enriched by unusual side dishes, such as bulgur or quinoa, prepared with the traditional apples, horseradish, beetroot, pumpkins or buttermilk. Fears of crazy taste combinations are replaced by inner peace and well-being already at the first bite. Perfect harmony of modern and traditional, seasonal and local, is enhanced by the service attitude and quality wine card. The dessert was just a beautiful end of the evening hiding in the dark the beauty of nature, of which Orava inhabitants are so proud, but maintaining the beauty in mind, encouraging artistic expression. Hviezdoslav would surely have written a couple of hard-to-remember verses, Janko Matuška should probably have rewritten words of the national anthem, Kukučín would definitely have written at least a short story and Mária Medvecká would have had before her eyes a model for her next masterpiece... I satisfied myself with the belief that I must definitely come back here and see how different seasons will taste in the lap of Orava nature and the cradle of the nationally glorified artists.
30.09.2018
... Oldřich Nový sings in the famous Czech comedy from 1939 "Kristián". I like the nostalgia of black & white Czech movies with Adina Mandlová and Oldřich Nový, Lída Bárová and Hugo Haas, in which elegant gentlemen with a perfectly slick haircut and knightly behaviour are courting neat ladies dressed in perfectly tailor-made costumes, with slightly wavy hair and subtle manners. The noblesse of the first republic breathes upon you from old movies, period photographs or narratives of great grandparents, but surely also when you grasp for some first republic cooking books and prepare according to them some traditional Czech-Moravian-Silesian recipes, pull out the tablecloth and tableware inherited from the grandma, set solemnly the table, sit down mannerly and maybe even dust off an old gramophone playing the above mentioned song. With the forthcoming centenary anniversary of the founding of the first Czechoslovak republic, I with my family decided to tune in Czech nostalgic wave, and we prepared a small first republic feast (even with the plates of grandma). On the table set according to Masaryk kitchen there were Walachian and Moravian yeast cakes, Czech buns, Prague ham with rolls and hot coffee for breakfast, roast duck, Moravian sparrow (roasted pork with onion and caraway), cabbage and steamed dumplings, mushroom cake and potato pancakes for lunch and "the cherry on the cake” were now almost forgotten "coffins" with whipped cream. Old-world cakes richly filled with plum jam, nuts, poppy and curd cheese and generously sprinkled with sweet butter crumble or sugar - this is the right pastry for breakfast in the style of first republic kitchen. It will give you enough energy to cope up with the preparation of the lunch with several courses among which the main one is roasted meat, best in a bird form. Either it will be direct duck or goose, but for lovers of pork there are "Moravian sparrows" (a bird is a bird). The traditional side dish was steamed cabbage and dumplings that cannot be thought apart, but potato pancakes and salty mushroom cake will delight as a small appetizer or a closing point. Without digestive and coffee with a dessert the first republic lunch wouldn't be complete, and the best choice for a nostalgic dessert are fragile cakes from yolk sponge dough known as "coffins" due to their shape and empty cavity, where instead of a dead body lay a thick stripe of whipped cream. Such a richly set table, however, was not obvious in the difficult post-war times of the first republic, on the contrary, housewives had to consider very carefully how much and what they would use in the recipe to make do with ingredients for the whole week and this is maybe why these "virtue from necessity" recipes gained such popularity among people and have become the basis of traditional Czech and Moravian cuisine. And so perhaps "just for today" you can revamp old recipes and dishes and remove to a time when gentlemen were courteous dandies and chic ladies liked to be fooled by beautiful words even though they knew the score:) The first republic celebrates the centenary and it's a reason good enough for a good lunch...
15.09.2018
When I last visited Bratislava I found myself as by miracle in the middle of Paris, in the most charming restaurant you can imagine. Noblesse of Paris, French sophistication and charm - you can find it all in Bratislava restaurant "Chez Balzac" where time flows so typically "Frenchy" - slowly so that you can reap the full benefits of gourmand delights served to you. The restaurant is for now open only partially - it offers its premises for different events and a small café on the terrace under the trees. In near future it is going to open its own bakery and finally also the kitchen in which there will be prepared carefully sought out dishes. Ad interim you can taste several kinds of salads prepared from high-quality ingredients, cheese or fantastic raclette prepared above candles, rinse it down with excellent champagne or French wine according to your choice or recommendation of the owner who is an embodied enthusiast loving French culture and gastronomy, Francophile and yet proud Slovak. His interest in visitors is coming out from preciseness and ethics but it is at the same time a manifestation of real passion for what he is doing. He went personally and proudly with us through the aborning restaurant, breathtaking hall of Versailles where everything is thought through into the smallest detail so that the noblesse, luxury and exceptionality underline the gourmand experience. Perfectionism is reflected also in the service - politeness, willingness, cordiality and a kind word of sympathetic waiter with rich experience from abroad makes simple food an experience that will long remain in your memory. If we add serving of 12 months matured Comté cheese with a Dutch machete, the memory track will be indelible. You shouldn't definitely plan the visit if you have little time or important job duties, because firstly - you will simply forget here about the time thanks to strong gourmand experience, and secondly - you will not want to leave and you will have to resist the temptation to cancel or at least postpone all work assignments "sine die". However, if you are looking for a place where you will be able to touch luxury, where you will be welcomed with open arms and served finely, and where, of course, you will tease your taste buds with the best of what France can offer, then you surely are waited in Balzac. I couldn't wait to their bakery being open, because on the same day in the morning I experienced also hopeless hunting for croissants, which I really adore, and that's why I wanted to take opportunity and taste those really French from the bakery and confectionery "Le Miam", the well-known not only for its croissants, but also for amazing and delicious French desserts. Unfortunately, half an hour after the opening they could offer to me only a few remaining cakes from the previous day, but no croissant. The baker had just started to prepare them and I would have had to wait another hour and a half for the first ones. My stomach didn't like this idea, since it had to be from the early morning empty due to the blood taking and it was high time to indulge it with a well-earned dose of the flour and butter as a reward for the lost blood. Fortunately, there was a café nearby, about which good rumors spread on social networks and supposedly it is the source of “the best warm croissants in Bratislava”. I am talking about "Vespa caffetteria" on the corner of Moskovská and Záhradnícka street in the wider center of Bratislava, in which you may have to fight for the table because it is still full and busy. The great thing is that you can grab a table also on the sidewalk and watch future medics going to lectures to the building of Medical faculty opposite to you while enjoying a really exceptionally good coffee and, with a little luck, the celebrated warm croissant. That is to say that at half past nine in the morning, they didn't have any. We were lucky to get last two, but unlike coffee, its taste didn't make my breath go away, but it didn't hurt either. The croissant was warm, crunchy, a little bit sweet and had only a gently buttery taste, which was beaten by an indefinable aftertaste. But hunger and ham and cheese inside smoothed away these minor defects and so the idea of a French breakfast at a small table on the narrow sidewalk was not only an inkling, but quite a pleasant reality. In any case, I will wait impatiently for Balzac's bakery and the opportunity to experience once again France in Bratislava.
03.06.2018
I recently saw on my own eyes that spells do not appear only in Harry Potter books or at magic performances in the circus, but we can also meet them wandering in Slovak cities. The first abracadabra I experienced happened in Martin, in a café and restaurant of the same name (Čáry-Máry in Slovak). It differs already at first glance by its industrial and yet cozy interior. They were really particular about its design and thought through the smallest and very witty details. It addresses especially younger generation of globetrotters who represent the most numerous clientele. You can meet here students working on their laptops, who write seminar papers, young men charged with energy, who meet here before or after work, determined entrepreneurs, who have working meetings with business partners here, or just random passers-by attracted by untraditional wooden swings on the terrace of this café and the blend of different world languages which can be heard from the mouth of satisfied clients. Besides to the great coffee from the coffee roaster Verticcio from Žilina, their satisfaction raises from the taste of a really rich offer of breakfast, but also delicious desserts from which to choose is really difficult, because their offer is huge, and in their preparation they apparently came down over the magic of the highest category. You definitely have to try the honey-caramel cake and the perfect Parisian cake, one piece of which you will not be certainly enough. Fruit, chocolate, yeast - all absolutely tempting and 100% homemade. Decision-making will be facilitated by a nice waiter who will recommend the most suitable dessert to the drink that you have chosen, but also to the preferences of your taste cells. Neighbouring restaurant impresses in particular more adventurous clients as it offers an unusual menu combining different tastes, that seem to be randomly pulled out from a magic hat. You will be fascinated, however, particularly by delicious fragrance and the original serving.
Hocus-pocus also acts in Trenčín, because my tired feet brought me without any navigation directly to the place where they got the rest and took me to Italy thanks to the artisan ice-cream and authentic semifredo dessert in the café and ice-cream shop Oilà. Not only the ice cream actually tastes like the Italian, but they use always a clean ladle, so you don't have to taste all kinds of ice cream that had customers before you, as it unfortunately happens in other Slovak stalls with ice cream. If you are not amazed by frozen desserts in traditional Italian flavors, you will certainly not be able to resist homemade fruit ice lollies. Although they offer also Italian coffee, I recommend rather to pick up one of the dozens of cafés and coffee roasters you bump into (no matter which direction you take) in Trenčín which seems to become a new Slovak capital of coffee lovers. Also here you will hear a mixture of different languages coming together with dozens of tourists. However be careful and instead of following the crowds of tourist make your choice rather according to your intuition, smell or original name (such as, for example, Ogodo), or let your legs to carry you where they will be the best. By the way, I would welcome some magic spell or cloak to get me to places where I like it any time and without much walking...
21.05.2018
The name of the famous fairy tale best describes the atmosphere in Ružomberok after six o'clock in the evening. With the Sleeping Beauty it has in common not only roses in the name, but also all the signs of a long centenary sleep. After the sixth hour of the evening you will meet not a living soul in the streets, only perhaps a gently distressed out-of-towner visitor who would like to freshen up and straighten out his or her tired hooves after a hike in the nearby Vlkolínec or Malinô Brdo. In fairy tales there is often repeated symbolism of the number three and this is exactly the number that describes the quantity of our attempts to find an open fast food restaurant after 18:00 on working day. Finally we found an open burgerbar with an interesting and really appropriate name " On a stupid place." Although on the badly nestled place it was at least open also in the evening, and what's more having interesting and really rich offer of burgers (also for vegetarians and demanding customers) and really great fries seasoned with cayenne pepper. However, this place will again remind you of the Sleeping Beauty because of an unconventionally tuned interior full of flowers. Fortunately, the waiters were not asleep, but kind and willing, although they played a significant superiority over the number of visitors. Apropo - fries. If you come to Ružomberok before the incriminated hour, you can eat homemade French fries in "Homefries" in Mostová Street, which are made on place of fresh and carefully selected potato varieties. Double fried, generous portions, nice service, unconventional eye-catcher in the form of a distinctive red barrels in the street - it all seems to be attributes of a successful business, but at lunch, when we visited it, the lack of guests has drowsily effect not only to us, but also the employees who were stuck with bobbins. So it is understandable that they close so early and at the weekend they prefer not to open at all. To wake you up you might want some coffee and you don't have to go too far. Right next to "Homefries" you have famous chocolate bar and café "Choco Passé", although their cappuccino will definitely not provide you with a recovering caffeine effect. On the contrary - you will get a large cup of warm milk (ideal for good sleep) with mild flavor of the otherwise good Italian coffee Bazzara, and in addition, some waiters make you think that they made their double whack of this sleeping cappuccino. However, they definitely have something to put you on your feet and charge with energy - a perfect Cuban and chestnut cake, handmade pralines made of real Belgian chocolate, and as a pick-me-up I recommend nut nubs. So many nuts in such a delicate chocolate will not let you fall asleep, although you will keep your eyes closed like above mentioned Sleeping Beauty because of the delight. However, be careful, on Sunday they close already at 17:00! Similarly to the fairy tale, when there blows into town a prince in the form of an interesting movie, concert or other cultural or sports event, the town arouses from sleep, but restaurants remain, with a few exceptions, closed.... Shh, quietly, so that we do not wake them up and disturb this unusual urban tranquility:)
13.05.2018
Trnava is known, thanks to the big number of churches and cathedrals, as Slovak Rome. Rome parallel can be found also in number of cafés and pizzerias but mostly in resemblance of local inhabitants with Romans - noisy, shouting, self-confident, grumpy and slightly offensive. The visit of Trnava reminded me of a Roman incident when we were cast out of a restaurant by a shouting lady only because we had not ordered complete three dishes menu. Although we haven't been cast out of anywhere in Trnava, notwithstanding that a shop-assistant in Istria bakery with authentic Croatian pastries was very close to it, the feeling of noise and helter-skelter was similar to the one in Rome. Such an authentic noisy Roman ambience is waiting for you in the legendary café Thalmeiner on Trojičné square which has lately come through the change of the owner and modern facelift concerning the offer of everything what is "in" these days - brunch, avocado and salmon sandwiches, cheesecakes and homemade lemonade. Paradoxically it is not the visitors who are responsible for the noise and rush in this café but waiters themselves who bang with serving trays, cups, pots and spoons not only on the counter desk but mostly on the guests' tables while putting under the nose something that was on principle ordered by your neighbour without polite asking to whom does what belong. Subsequent changing of cups, plates and glasses is not, regarding the table size, very easy, but at least you have a chance to sniff the meals and drinks of your messmates. That made us, thanks God, popped across to more pleasant part of our visit of this café, when we could try really delicious cakes, a little bit strange sandwiches and very strong café which would be appreciated only by acid coffee lovers. To get on your table exactly the thing you want is, however, not that easy as a man would expect. The waiter, who seemed to have a screw-propeller in the buttocks, communicates with you so fast that you have a feeling of not being heard and that he ordered something on his own and all this happening jet-speed so that you have impression that he even was not at the table and you just dreamed it up. Uncertain if you managed to dictate him everything you wanted in the way you wanted it, you wait with tautness what will finally be brought on the table. To be more precise what will be banged on the table or put right into your hands. It is not surprising then that I found in my hands a plate with something I had not ordered and what's more, there was a little fly walking between chives from one side to another. It took a moment to attract again the waiter's attention and established correction during which time we were watching other waiters trying to carry plenty of orders coming from each side while your coffee, prepared long time ago, is in vain waiting to be brought to you. Little bit stressed and meager of pretty some few euros we set out for Trnava streets to breathe its history and in the shadows of old buildings escape from the heat and noise. As luck would have it we bumped into the 6th annual of city fair known as Trnavský rýnek. Perfect noise and helter-skelter multiplied by crazy permeation of smells from hundreds of stalls with traditional and absolutely untraditional goodies. Slovak gnocchi, stove drop cookies, pastrami, glutenfree, spelt and even veggie burgers, buritos, Japanese specialities, homemade jams, lemonade, coffee, lavender and long, long queues everywhere. Though in some of them it was worth to queue, for example in front of Lulus stall which was sold out already at lunch offering miniversions of tartalettes, macrons and cheesecakes so wonderfully decorated that a man ate them with sorriness and in front of the stall Trhance ako párance which was besieged by families for hours. The heat and noise forced us to look for another legendary place - café Synagóga. Its name corresponds perfectly with the place where you will find it - in ancient synagogue. Untraditional space really creates the zone of calm and pleasant cold in summer heats but all the same - calm, cold and slow is also the service there. You must be very creative to attract its attention and patient enough to wait all quiet for your order. If you are not in hurry, you can enjoy (while waiting for a waiter) inspiring interior of forepassed time and, if you have even more time and you will wait to see your order, also an excellent coffee and seductive and savoury cakes. Trnava certainly hides a great number of beautiful corners where you can have a rest and there certainly live nice and kind people, but apparently you must go far away from the madding crowds, long queues and bars recommended by Tripadvisor and wandering around discover something less Roman, aside in a discreet alley. Perhaps you will run across my secret treasure that I have discovered in Trnava - confectioner's shop of Mister Manfred Hubler who studied the art of patisserie directly in Vienna and I must admit that he must have been an excellent student. Whether you choose in this cute confectionary something from Vienna classics, such as Sacher torte (absolutely flavourous and lovely chocolate) or caramel Cardinal (excellent up to the last crumb) or from Hungarian gold patissery fund, for example creamy cake "Krémeš" (with so foamy whipped and vanilla cream that you will not want other than this anymore) or Dobos cube (with soft sponge biscuit and smooth cocoa cream), believe me that you will float on cloudlet of memories of the best cakes that you have ever tried. What's more, through glass wall you can observe their preparation, exactly like in the famous Vienna confectionary Demel and you will certainly forget about Trnava-Rome helter-skelter few streets away. Slovak Rome has certainly something to offer to everyone, but similarly to its Roman namesake, the most beautiful things will be relieved only to selected ones.
08.05.2018
Guilty pleasure in the literal sense means "pleasure with the feeling of guilt" and it refers to an experience that brings you a feeling of blissful happiness, but it is not for free. Either you pay a lot and a lot of money for it, or it costs hours and hours of exercise to burn received calories. In any case, it is something exceptional, which you can't afford every day, but when that day comes, you are ready to gain the full benefits of this pleasure to silence remorse and guilt.
From time to time everybody could do with being cherished for a while, and not having to think about the financial or health objections and simply enjoy life which we maybe secretly dream about, but we don't live it. Therefore, such a special day should be carefully planned so that nothing prevents you from experiencing its uniqueness and exceptionality. For exceptional moments of luxury and physical and psychological comfort, it is advisable to look after (currently so popular) "wellness". This English term is used to describe the feeling, when you feel well. Many hotels and guesthouses dispose of this compulsory facility, but as it is usual in Slovakia, you need to be vigilant not to get caught by marketing tools of attracting visitors. You will experience true wellness, for example, at Zochova chata near Modra. When you manage to put apart some money (you will need really pretty much of it) and you want to relax luxuriously, this is definitely the appropriate place. Wellness area of this hotel offers a swimming pool, whirlpool, sauna, massages, garden with relaxation zones, where there is only you and nature adjusted so that you are not disturbed with neither insects nor wind, nor noise, and not forgetting drinks, which are brought directly to your deck chair. You will certainly enjoy moments of excellence, even when swimming or in the whirlpool bubbles, when you are watched through the glass wall by the envious looks of poor men locked into luxurious, but at the same time training or working lounge on the first floor and the wellness is waiting for them, in the better case, late in the evening, or for a short while at the end of their training or work stay. After having enjoyed exclusive care of your body, enjoy also pampering your digestive system at the hotel restaurant. Its luxurious interior and a crowd of prepared waiters are indications that the food they offer here will also be from the category of exceptional. Interestingly compiled menu is supplemented by a seasonal menu, now in the spring based on asparagus and rhubarb. Portions are generous, tasty balanced and their professional preparation and serving undoubtedly induces a feeling of well-being surpassing remorse which appears with the bill. I must admit that they know here what "wellness" means, and they do everything to allow you to really experience it in the most luxurious package. On the other hand, there are places in Slovakia that promise you "wellness", but nobody knows why they offer "wellmess "(note - in some Slovak hotels even mayhem and pretty lumping). In this case, from your sinful pleasure, pleasure will be lost, and only a sense of guilt will remain, multiplied by strong reproaches because of the money thrown out. This is exactly how I felt in the" wellness " of Park Hotel in Dolný Kubín. Sauna, pool and whirlpool are of course on the menu, but in them also screaming and splashing kids who throw the ball over you, random guests of the hotel summer garden, where other children scream, smoke on the terrace by open window making you inhale their cigarettes' smoke. Escape to the sauna won't work it out, because there you will find boozed up and adequately noisy men, who sweat like a pig and therefore they regularly cool themselves in already mentioned swimming pool, spitting around. Small glimpse of hope, however, is still lit up at the thought of at least a small dessert in the hotel café or restaurant, which, however, is snuffed out immediately after the waiter brings "apple tarte tatin" you have chosen from the menu. A few days old pastry dough, warmed in microwave, over which there are spread stewed apples, without any hint of caramel and butter, which are absolute keystones of this French classics. Add to it red cold blot of mixed frozen raspberries on the plate and a ball of light-speed melting sorbet leaving on the plate sticky sweet water, in which swims a piece of bitter lime skim. To the waiter's learned question, whether I liked it, despite seeing an almost untouched plate, there was only a brief answer "No", which obviously flatten him down so that he was able only to babble out something that should have been an expression of his regret. Hotel Park is according to its marketing "place full of experiences", unfortunately they have forgotten to specify the nature of those experiences, because instead of "wellness" (the feeling, when you feel good), you will experience a true "wellmess" (a good mess).
However, when enumerating my "guilty pleasures", I must not forget about hotel breakfast, which I especially look forward to during occasional short stays in hotels. Despite the relatively high price (7-10 euros per person) and number of taken calories multiplied by two or three compared to my usual breakfast, I'm looking forward to it, because I don't have to get up an hour earlier than my family members to prepare it, because of the choice of fresh baked bread and rolls (sweet, salty, cereal and white), different kinds of cheese, hams, fruit and vegetables, fresh juices and teas, good coffee and warm breakfast dishes, among which is never absent (not even in the Park hotel) traditional scrambled eggs and sausages which love my kids followed by some sweet goodies. I'm looking forward to nice set tables, I love that I don't have to move a finger and just load up the palte with what I have a fancy for at the moment and if I don't like it, I just load up something else and, regarding the price, I do several times without any remorse, because the real "guilty pleasure" will give you such delight that far exceeds the feeling of guilt and makes you even completely forget about it, only savoure the uniqueness of the moment.
29.04.2018
For the question about the place where I like eating on warm, dry and sunny days, there is the only answer - in the grass. If I'm not supposed to sit at the table, then definitely on the picnic quilt. Theses days, barbecuing has been brought to the fore ("barbecue season" has already begun in all supermarkets leaflets), but the picnic has something that the barbecue is missing - noblesse and festivity.
I'm a zealous fan of picnics which win 3 : 0 against the barbecue. Primarily because of the smoke. When grilling, you simply do not avoid it even with electric grills, from which the smoke rises out of the burned delicacies. Clothes you wear for the barbecue are unusable next day, and you also need a good dose of freshening conditioner to restore its scent. If you have a bath after barbecue party, you will need a good detergent to remove black and greasy dirt that will remain in the bath after the water will have drained away. In contrast to this, during a picnic you can fully enjoy the scent of flowers and sounds of the surrounding nature, which is these days waking up really intensely - everything blooms, pushes out, buzzes and somewhere also moos, especially if you crawl through (despite prohibition) fences and hedges in the meadows. Secondly, the traditional barbecue does not play into a very healthy diet. Steaks, ribs, marinades, beer and a lot of carcinogens, that's the classic menu of a succeeded barbecue. On the contrary, for a picnic you can pack in the food that fully fits your healthy lifestyle - fruit and vegetable salads, sandwiches with homemade spreads, light desserts without melting chocolate and butter stuffing, home sodas. My favorite picnic classics are graham sandwiches with hard-boiled eggs and tomatoes, or homemade pizza, or pizza strudel, muffins (sweet and salty), nut or fruit tartalets made of shortcrust pastry and not forgetting champagne (mostly non-alcoholic:). In addition, you can't load the picnic basket with o lot of food and no one even wants to carry extra kilos in the basket, so the amount of goodies that flatter your figure is safely and without remorse under control. Thirdly - picnicing is more ecological. Since the dishes on the traditional picnic are not used to be served on one-time plastic or paper plates and cups, but on the real tableware, the waste is minimised, not to mention a far higher-level culture of dining.
I can see famous paintings of the French impresionists Manet, Monet or Renoire and their elegant ladies and gentlemen in suits sitting on the blankets, relaxing, pecking from a wide range of food and slowly sipping wine or champagne. A similar scene appears perhaps in all French romantic films, while in many American movies (and at least in one part of series of the same origin) there can't be missing a scene set during grilling burgers in shorts and T-shirt, with a can of beer in hands. This Franco-American duel of fresh air dining has an unambiguous winner for me, although I understand our passion for barbecue, the roots of which we can find in the roasting sausages and bacon on the open fire of pioneer campfires. We have only zipped it up a little and conformably to American barbecues enriched the assortment of grilled food. Nevertheless, I incline to the elegant version of dining in the countryside, which is for me an ideal combination of walking and eating in the fresh air, both beneficial for our health. Moreover, I can have a picnic in the early morning. Unlike barbecue, breakfast in the grass is perhaps the most common romantic cliche in movies and novels (can you imagine it with grilled sausage?). If you have a chance to experience it on your cost, believe me, you will want to have dew on your feet and a hot cup in hands in the refreshing morning summer-scenting air at least every Sunday morning. I can't wait to pull out our picnic backpack, choose a spot with beautiful natural scenery in the background and enjoy the picnic in the grass together with my children or friends...
22.4.2018
Among all the modern trends in nutrition and healthy lifestyle, I like especially the trend of "comfort food". The first thing that comes to our mind when someone says "comfort" is cosiness, but this English word has also other meanings - well-being, satisfaction, joy. And these are the feelings that a real "comfort food" has to bring about - to comfort us, to satisfy us, to embrace and mollify us. Undoubtly, food is a way for many of us to fight off melancholy. But many times it ends up by consuming four peanut biscuits Horalka, and a short feeling of wellfare is followed by stomach ache (because of artificial fats of dubious origin-Oh, Horalka, what have they done to you?) and remorse because of unnecessarily received calories, and your melancholy will not only not disappear, but it will spread into unimagined dimensions.
Comfort food, on the contrary, will relieve you of the melancholy, world weariness and soul sadness without any side negative effects. So what is this miracle food? In matter of fact, it is not a miracle, but recalling of beautiful memories allied with some food and that can bring back the moments when you were happy, when you were not worried about unpaid bills, illnesses, or scaring work deadlines. Oftentimes it's a food from your mom that you asked to prepare for your birthday, after coming home from long journeys or on other exceptional occasions. Or it is a food from your grandmother that she used to prepare for you on trouble-free holiday days, or every time you visited her on the weekend and in the family quietude you were enjoying her bundt cake or strudel. In short, it is the food that can caress you, calm down, the food, the consumption of which brings you back in time, and the preparation of which, on the other hand, needs ample time. It maybe does not meet the modern requirements of "fat-free, sugar-free and gluten free" food, but it is definitely tasty so that you immediately forget about sorrows and focus only on the beauty of the moment.
For me such food is my mother's yest cocoa cake, even a small piece of which reminds me of Saturday evenings, when I could together with my sisters, after having cleaned the whole house and fulfilled all the duties, finally watch TV. I remember, for example, historical series Covingtoncross, where main characters always solved everything with British humour and determination and while watching it cocoa and butter from the cake was trickling down my chin and I was just feeling fine. Saturdays of my childhood are coupled also with another food that reminds me of this time when it was possible to run away to my room and the world of "Anne of Green Gable" or "Three Investigators" and dream.... It is stuffed pepper, which was always at our home prepared in a large pot, the content of which was, thanks to repeated turns, always eaten up. Plum dumplings with ground sweetened poppy seeds remind me once again of sunny autumn afternoon, when I was emptying dried poppy heads or climbing a tree and grabbing juicy and sweet plums, which I actually had rather eaten than picked and only the thought of plum dumplings made me put few plums also in the bowl. All these dishes remind me up to this day of happy childhood moments, and thanks to this they are able to better my mood even today. Recently, I have added to the list of appeasing food marinated beef tende from my mother with yeast dumpling from my mother-in-law, who knows, perhaps under the influence of another modern trend of "fusion" of different cuisines... I wonder if also in my children's memory will remain some beautiful memories that they will be able to recall at any time with some food. For my son it could be "meat on cognac", and for the daughter probably" meat on cream " and especially gratinated cream potatoes which they ask me to prepare whenever there is any special occasion. It is true that some restaurants have run into the trend "like from granny", but it would be naive to expect that profaned "granny" will prepare a dish as yours does. Only if your granny had huge freezer boxes in the larder, large frying pans and even larger supply of long-keeping cake Marlenka. Did you know that these modern grandmothers'restaurants buy frozen gnocchi, wrapped cutlets, peeled and chopped potatoes, and even the "true homemade" apple strudel? The truth is that no restaurant, where they cook "like from a granny", can replace neither your mom nor grandmother, to whom we owe all those beautiful memories. Therefore we should thank them and we don't have to wait for upcoming Mother's Day, after all, the soul can be caressed not only with food, but also a smile or a memory. So what's your comfort food?
07.04.2018
What looks like a florist is, in fact, the most relaxing patisserie you can imagine. What looks like hardware shop before wiping out, in turn, is a coffee paradise and what reminds you of antidracula lair smelling with garlic far and wide, is a bakery where a truly great homemade bread is baked. In Nitra, there are unduly places that look completely different than what they really are.
The store windows of the confectionery Elisabeth Patisserie, and after opening the door also its interior, evoke with its pastel colors and decorations a florist, but do not let confuse you and rather find a place in one of the comfortable armchairs, because the heaven is waiting for you - not only in the mouth, but also in the soul. Appeasing music and comfortable seating encourage you to idle and give in daydreaming, but it would be a mistake to be only drifted along by the wellbeing without trying some of the desserts, which are extremely succeeded and incredibly delicious fakes of French confectionery classics or savouring a cup of delicious foamy cappuccino. Desserts are a delight for a sweet tooth, but also for an eye - they won't disappoint lovers of sinfully good fancy cakes and in addition they are carefully and dainty decorated. "The icing on the cake" is in this case a small piece of white chocolate on each cake with the name of the patisserie and even if you are not a fan of white chocolate, this will get you, because it does not at all remind of those white oversweetened masses sold in stores. The white "stamp" of this confectionery is so good that you will be willing to order another dessert just because of this piece of great chocolate. And, perhaps, also for the sake of enjoying the peace, the smell of fresh flowers on the table and the smiles of helpful serving staff whose only task is to pamper you and let you relax as long as possible.
A little further, in Farská Street, in a lackluster-looking hardware shop tucked behind shabby columns, another nice surprise is waiting for you. The intense aroma of coffee will not leave you in doubt that in this shop you won't buy screws and nails, as it might seem in front of its door, but freshly roasted coffee of different tastes and origins. Not very cozy and plain interior is distincted by paintings of unusual modern artistic styles and yet the strange visual impression will not encourage you to leave, on the contrary. The smell, the uniqueness of the offer from a local roaster "Čierna perla" (Black pearl), a wide selection of preparation methods of the cup of coffee just according to your mood and taste and erudite nice waiters, whose knowledge of coffee are astounding and who take care and give their time, without hurry, to each customer, are worth to visit this original Nitra café Rosetta. It is a paradise for gourmands and coffeemasters, and a blessing surprise for random passers-by. In addition, you can buy there everything necessary for the preparation and drinking of coffee at home and, to my great joy, even Austrian chocolate Zotter, whose good name has rightfully been spreading already behind our frontiers.
Thirdly, I was pleasantly surprised by another small shop in Štefánikova trieda, into which I (as a staunch defendant of garlic and onion) had to force myself to enter due to the pungent garlic odour spreading around it. And I didn't regret - a nice shop assistant with engaging Hungarian accent offered to us fairly homemade bread baked on place, aroma of which (when we left the shop garlic aroma) was a guarantee that the bread had been baked by skilful hands of the baker. Unfortunately, just after lunchtime, we did not get any rolls in this shop, but apparently only because they have a good reputation among the locals. After all, it is not for nothing that the good and favorite articles are being said that they fade away like warm rolls. Next time, I'll be out of here right in the morning, because I'm sure I'll be back to Nitra again - owing to other pleasant surprises and unexpected revelations. Nitra showed me that there was no need to judge (and condemn) things and people by their cover and first impression, because everything can be otherwise - better:)
25.02.2018
I must confess that I don't like jazz. I feel that every member of jazz music ensemble is a soloist who plays his/her own melody and rhythm passionately and with fervor, but the result is a musical disharmony despite the doubtless great musical talent of everybody involved. Of course, there are certainly jazz musicians who can harmonize their talent with the others' and then it's a pleasure not only for them but also for the audience. Alike I perceive the Slovak coffee bars scene which has lately experienced an enormous boom. A lot of passionate soloists, convinced of their own genius, but the final harmonized experience in some of hundreds little coffee bars is rare.
Actually I distinguish three types of Slovak cafés. In the first type after having ordered a coffee the service will ask you whether instant or brewed. Here it's better to turn tail and run to blazes. For the same retreat you should opt in cafés where you are offered profaned Italian coffees Lavazza or Segafredo prepared in a cheap coffee machine aimed for home use, served in cups with logo of Popradská káva, CBA biscuit and cream with logo of a supermarket brand which sells it at the moment on discount. This second type is unfortunately represented by coffee bars which have sprung up like mushrooms after the rain. They offer the quality coffee, Italian or Slovak, which they prepare much about intuitively, without actual barista knowledge and so you can never be sure if cappuccino turns out well or not. The service is nice, ambience pleasant, cakes are tasty and homemade, but they are only jazz soloists without the final harmony and so the coffee becomes only piped music while chatting with friends. The most precious type is represented by the coffeehouses where the coffee is a genius soloist harmoniously completed by other great musicians. These coffeehouses are roasters at the same time where people understand the coffee and know perfectly nuances of its preparation. How to recognize them? The first feature is a scent which itself navigates you to the coffeehouse, very often out of mainstream touristic roads. The second feature is professional craftiness of the service who knows what coffee they offer and how it is being prepared and is also able to recommend the most convenient coffee for you without bad intention of getting rid of the coffee that doesn't go off. The third feature is a possibility to buy coffee freshly roasted on place, and finally, my personal indicator of a coffeehouse quality is a plain-colour cup without any add, eventually with the logo of its own roasted coffee.
Believe me or not but the first type is still present in Slovakia, having no idea why they can be found most often at railway stations (not speaking about trains themselves) and hospital snack-bars. Recently we have been swarmed with the second type. There is a lot of enthusiasts who want to fulfill their dream of a small café, they invest in expensive devices, in design of the interior and purchase expensive and high-quality coffee beans, which are excellent on themselves, however, if they end up in wrong hands of unprofessional service, their perfect taste harmony is lost when savouring homemade cake and they become the above mentioned soloist whose talent disappears in the jazz disharmony. It seems to me that every town has at least one such brand new open coffeehouse, which becomes over time either a popular meeting place of local residents or perishes due to opening of another similar coffeehouse nearby.
Fortunately, in every Slovak region you can find a café, which is known not only to the locals, but because of its exceptionality, it is being looked for also by nonresidents. One of them is a café with roaster Aurelica in Liptovský Mikuláš. It is a place that, in addition to coffee, offers a little extra. Story. The story of young people who love coffee. The story of coffee, which is pampered here, and its preparation is finalized into perfection. The story of customers who are here Alpha and Omega. Customers select coffee according to their taste and mood, choose the method of its preparation and the place of serving, the customer is at the centre of interest of the owners and determines their business plans. The aroma that hits you while opening the door, will not allow you to step back and will make you choose a place in unconventionally designed interior of the small café hidden out of the sight of the unauthorized, and on the contrary hidden in the silence and tranquility for foodies and experts who don't want to be disturbed during their coffee ritual. Immediately after sitting down, the service will bring you a bottle of water on the table and ask about the day you have. They will advise, recommend, praise, briefly, caress both the soul and the tongue. You can order a cake from Aďka from Komjatná, whose popularity is growing at cosmic speed and rightfully so. The service will provide space for a private conversation, but will constantly monitor whether they can fulfill your next wish. All perfect soloists join together here in a harmonious jazz concert and you do not want to leave. Don't forget to buy at least a pack of great, just-roasted coffee, and you will leave with a resolution that you must definitely stop here again by the nearest occasion.
At the end of this coffee musical theme, the words of the song of the Divine Karel Gott come out to me: "I'll sweeten my coffee a little more, I'll tune my banjo and then nothing more." With a good coffee, there's really nothing else you need, not even a banjo, although a little bit of a good music cannot do any harm...
3.2.2018
I love travelling by train. The regular rhythm of the train calms me down, and I can enjoy reading which makes me otherwise sick in other means of transport. On the train I can observe the landscape behind the windows and people around me, although almost all of them are magically attracted by the small screen of their smart phones or laptop. So there is the reading that remains as a pass-time and why not to read something the plot of which takes place on the train, even on the most luxurious train of all time - on the Orient Express. Perhaps being influenced by the last film based on this famous Agatha Christie's detective story, in which my favourite actor Johny Depp is murdered, I have set my mind on enjoying my next trip by train in the dinning-car and relish a little bit of luxury and noblesse, seeing that on the famous Orient Express (the real one, not only cinematic one) you are served with champagne and selected dishes prepared by a chef with at least one Michelin star. In the dining-car of the Slovak Republic Railways I did not expect, of course, to be welcomed with a glass of champagne, but I did not expect them trying to poison me there either. After having walked through the suitcases and bags of passengers to the dining-car, I stood looking stunned by the limited choice of place at just three small tables. One of them was occupied, the second was almost in the kitchen and so I picked the remaining table right at the door, which were without any rational reason still opening - apparently because of malfunctioned photocell. The setting of the dining-car was not very friendly - stained seats, dirty windows, pecked beer pads - but thanks to the nice service, which honestly did not have a lot of work and thus could intensely give their time to me with a wide smile, I encouraged myself and opened the menu. The menu corresponded to the kitchen's equipment, which was dominated by fryers, microwave and freezer. Fried or heated frozen oven ready products did not really attract me, so I looked into the desserts offer. No pleasant surprise took place - three kinds of long-keeping Marlenka (honey and nuts cake). And what does the column "Cold cuisine" offer? Two types of packed baguette from the traditional petrol station brand "Grotto" - Ham and Debrecen. It seemed like I would stay hungry, but disarmed by the smile of a nice waiter and not willing to be impolite I ordered at least a cup of cappuccino. I couldn't imagine he would bring me a quarter of a liter of milk gently flavored by Segafredo's coffee aroma with a fallen washy milk foam covered with cinnamon, to which I have allergy. Even at the best of my will, I could not enjoy it, even after removing the cinnamon, and I thanked the Providence that had given me the idea of taking my own food and drinks on the train. After having paid the bill that could have been serenely made out in some prestigious four-star hotel, I humbly and grateful for having survived it, returned to my seat and unpacked my sandwich and tea. However I committed a public nuisance, not because of the sandwich, but because of the smell that came with me as I stinked like French fries fried in over burnt oil which were actually ordered along with beer by the second client in the dining-car sitting at the best table. Despite the disappointment that I have experienced in our IC train, I keep on hoping that once I will have the pleasure of being a passenger on the train, where I will eat without the fear of being poisoned or biliary colic and I will enjoy the train travelling with everything that comes with according to me. In the meantime, I will dream about it with a book by Agatha and my little snack.
08.01.2018
Copious Christmas tables are slowly being replaced by those of balls and carnivals, the media are full of instructions how to get rid of abundant Christmas pounds and so respond to our not always rational and slightly exalted New Year's resolutions. And so we can read about various kinds of superfood, which is supposed not only to help you to get rid of unwished pounds, but also stress, viruses and they even guarantee 100% to prolong our lives - chia, quinoa, acai, soy, chard, curcuma... .... Truly, as far as I am not sure about their pronunciation, I am not really convinced of their miraculous effects, which would have to withstand a few thousand kilometers of travelling and the specifics of our digestive system, generously doped with preservatives and stabilizers that all ordinary articles of food, firmly wrapped in plastic, contain. However, I discovered an article that pleased me and I thank its author for stimulating inspiration for reflection. Thanks to him, I realized that our ancestors had since long discovered the miraculous power of some food and so their traditional consumption also during Christmas had its merit. Sour cabbage, nuts, honey, garlic - they are all plentiful of vitamins and body beneficial substances and at the same time tasty. Just the idea of their scenting evokes the slowly coming Christmas Eve and brings about the feeling of inner peace and well-being that we are looking for especially at Christmas. If we add sheep-cheese “bryndza”, beetroot, horseradish, flax, lentils, chickpeas, ginger or blackberries, we get a list of Slovak superfoods, the nutritional content of which can easily compete with the foreign food miracles and yet have not travelled across half a planet with no chemical treatment to handle it. At the same time we will get an answer to our New Year's resolutions regarding the willingness to do something for our body, because by consuming these Slovak superfoods we will certainly do good to our body and contribute to the recovery of the Slovak economy (well - at least a little bit, because to really recovery it, we would not need the help of superfood, but rather superheroes from American comics). When I look back to my Christmas eating this year, I find out that it was super-generous, super-tasty and super-Slovak - baked jacket potatoes with raw sauerkraut from my parents' keg, wafers baked by my mom with honey from Orava meadows, cakes full of walnuts from Trenčín, beef meat from young Orava bull, beetroot salad with horseradish or chicken soup full of vegetables with home-made noodles - simply healthy, delicious and homemade and therefore I intend to continue in this generous and healthy feasting throughout all new year, not only at Christmas...
03.12.2017
Formerly I was passionate by the literary absurd of French existentialists J.-P. Sartre, A. Camus or B. Vian and at that time I couldn't guess that I would actually experience the same absurd situations in my real life. It has happened to me recently in Turčianske Teplice. Again and again I felt like Maruška in the fairy tale about 12 little months, when I was enjoying a really exceptional Italian ice cream in a local patisserie in December and although it was pretty much freezing outside, I felt like having a summer holiday in Italy again. However, if you would feel a bit cold for ice cream, then warm yourself up with a great cappuccino with lovely thick foam and definitely have the iconic cake of this coffee-room - Italian “cream-cake", which makes you wanna come back whether there is frost or summer heat outside. This gourmet gem will be offered to you in the Mimosa pizzeria and patisserie in the center of Turčianske Teplice, just a few steps from the Aquapark with thermal water, so you can enjoy swimming in the outdoor swimming pool even at under zero temperatures. Due to the large water and air temperature gap, you will be completely immersed in the fog, from which sometimes a figure of the lifeguard emerges wearing red warm-up suit, quilted winter jacket, winter cap and gloves. Another figure, which you can for a while in the fog consider for being his partner, is actually a snowman built from genuine Slovak snow on the edge of the pool, also dressed in a red winter jacket. This absurd picture will be greatly complemented by the notorious Christmas songs from the pool loudspeakers and you will feel absurdly safe and beautiful in the hot healing water guarded by a snowman.
Turčianske Teplice offers also other absurd and beautiful experiences. The hotel industry in this part of Slovakia has lagged behind any world trends and fervently adheres to the model of original socialist recreation - canteen-like food (at breakfast “buffet” there must be of course frankfurters with mustard and rolls and poppy cake, you won’t be saved from sirloin sauce with a slice of stiff beef for lunch and roast chicken with mashed potatoes garnished with a piece of bell pepper for dinner), organized medical treatments, afternoon stopping at the confectionary shop Romance for long-keeping spa wafers, where you will be served by a perfect copy of "Woman at the Counter" series and we can not forget the evening music parties where the old spa guests enthusiastically dance to Croatian or Robo Kazik's songs. Although most of us are familiar with all this from communist period films and the past century, in Turčianske Teplice it is a current real offer. Soever absurdly it may sound, looking at satisfied Slovak retirees, who are once again enjoying their youth and fully enjoying their mutual company, beautiful feelings and memories will be evoked also in you.
Despite the obvious retro predominance of the tourist offer in the city, you will also find a gust of modern times, such as the "Cube" café and bar, which has a modern interior and service design and offers delicious coffee from its own roasting, tasty small sandwiches and attracts the visitors by well-taken advertising slogan “Life is too short for bad coffee ". Here, I want to believe that Turiec region will be able one day to use its fantastic potential and fully transform its chances into beautiful and not absurd experiences of its visitors.
26.11.2017
Fortunately, it is not impossible to find a restaurant where you not only enjoy the meal, but also feed your artistic soul. This is exemplified by the Aphrodite restaurant in Čereňany, where they cook and artistically create being directed by the Chef Marián Filo, awarded with dozens of prestigious awards.
The first-class quality of the ingredients is guaranteed by their own breeding and growing. Every meal is cooked only from the ingredients of local sources and their own production. Fish, poultry, venison, beef or pork, eggs, even flour, butter, milk and mushrooms - all this has not been transported for more than a few meters from its natural environment to the restaurant kitchen, what is the essential prerequisite for a perfect gourmet experience. Indeed, this restaurant upgrades this experience to a real art. Styling of the dishes on a plate resembles to beautiful still-life paintings of prominent Dutch paint brush masters. Serving the food reminds you of a well coordinated Moscow ballet ensemble - the waiters rotate at your table in a sophisticated choreography, pushing back and in the chairs with your every movement (so even a visit to the toilets will not remain unnoticed). In absolute harmony, evoking synchronized swimmers, they uncover dish-covers of all diners at the same time and with incredible virtuosity exchange and renew the cutlery, plates and glasses according to the food and drink of your choice. Not only the eyes but also the ears are pleased thanks to the unintrusive and carefully selected music that evokes almost Buddhist peace of mind. With the art of a magician, the chef will personally, within your amazed sight, flambé the steak, smoke wild game, fillet fish and carve crayfish, or slice still warm bread baked only for you. You will be enchanted by his every movement and convinced of the perfectly mastered magic of cooking craft. And the cherry on the artistic Olympe is the architecture of the old manor house place itself, which has retained its authentic historical atmosphere thanks to the perceptive reconstruction of its premises and garden. Not surprisingly, the restaurant has been ranked at the top of the TREND TOP Restaurants and Hotels ranking scale for several years, in which independent evaluators in the form of mystery shopping (incognito shopping) choose the best ones among 200 rated facilities, assessing the food and service quality, trends in gastronomy and guest's dining environment. In 2017, the first place went to the Aphrodite restaurant and therefore you will certainly not be surprised if you have lunch with some famous personality or celebrity at the side table. The restaurant has been visited by seven foreign presidents, the Queen of the Netherlands, the King of Norway and many of our leading representatives of political, social and cultural life. But the most amazing thing is that I, a little insignificant Slovak visitor, was treated just like the queen - in Slovak restaurants it is not usual that waiters call you "Madame", the chef himself is interested if the food is really tasty and hold your coat and bow when you are leaving.
To sum it up briefly, this restaurant offers an exceptional artistic experience with full gastronomic satisfaction for all who decide to set off on the side Slovak roads, as Čereňany is not located within striking distance and a bit away from the main routes. However, this is the only drawback of this special place, where I not only tease my taste senses, but also the artistic one, although well-hidden and yet unrevealed ...
19.11.2017
If I were a duck, goose or turkey, I certainly wouldn't like the end of the year. If I weren't butchered and eaten in November, I'd certainly lose my husband in December. The end of the year simply does not favour these birds - St. Martin's goose tradition in the Czech Republic, Slovak goose and duck feasts with lokshe (thin pancakes made of potato dough) and cabbage, Thanksgiving (also called Turkey Day) in the USA and the upcoming Christmas holidays are also traditionally associated with turkey in the UK. For as much as I am one of the members of the human race who love the dark and tasty meat of the poultry, I’m duly looking forward to the late autumn days. The roots of this poultry massacre go back to the remote history as certain historical events gave rise to several legends. In the Czech Republic the tradition says that St. Martin did not have a very good relationship with geese. It is said that they were disturbing him while preaching, so today they pay for it on baking pans. Another legend claims that he was betrayed by them when he was hidden out of his modesty in a goose coop not to be elected the bishop. In any case, the tradition of St. Martin's roast goose has survived in the Czech Republic until today and it is still very popular, and perhaps there is no restaurant where you would not be offered with baked goose, cabbage, steamed dumpling and beer these November days. In Slovakia, goose feasts are associated mainly with specialized restaurants called "goose houses" in villages near Little Carpathians, of which the best known are Slovenský Grob, Chorvátsky Grob, Svätý Jur and Limbach, where you can expect a feast in the true sense of the word. As a starter - goose liver, as a main course - home-grown goose roasted in the traditional clay roaster with potato pancakes (lokshe) and to wash it down - a half-fermented wine or local quality wine. At present, however, you can taste baked goose or duck everywhere in Slovakia, tradition - non-tradition. Hotels, guest houses, but also third-class restaurants and perhaps even gas stations invite you for a sort of goose and duck feast. And school canteens cannot be ashamed neither, although the roast goose, I had the chance to taste in one of them, suffered even after death - dried to the bone, hard-bitten, tasteless with soaked dumplings and stinking sour cabbage - the goose really did not deserve it. After this experience I was not surprised by the seasonable autumn offer in one Slovak "true Italian pizzeria", which, perhaps out of respect for the geese that these birds enjoy in Italy (according to legend they saved Rome), rather serves roast ducks instead with pasta and gnocchi.
In the US, the fourth November Thursday is critical for the turkeys because of the long lasting tradion of Thanksgiving Day. In 1621, the first settlers with local Indians in Plymouth thanked for surviving and the harvest, and since 1863 this day has been a national holiday. Today, whole families are gathering at a common table to thank for the past year, and this family gathering will not do without roast turkey with potato purée and cranberry sauce. But one turkey is very lucky every year this day - he is amnestied by the American president and becomes a media star for a moment. Speaking about the present US president, who knows if the turkey would not be rather better on the roaster ...
Whatever is the tradition that this poultry falls sacrificed to, if it is prepared fairly, it is really an incredible delicacy. Actually you can make do with very little - salt, caraway, handing overnight, polishing with milk and baking slowly, really very slowly, in a good baking pan, turning around occasionally, sometimes pouring over a well-baked grease... The baking time of the goose is equal to the time of looking forward to it, and the smell of roast meat will prepare you bit by bit for your hedonistic tastes. The few hours, which take the poultry to turn into a crispy and juicy dish, can be used to prepare side dishes according to your taste or regional affiliation. As the third Saturday in November is the day when you can taste for the first time this year's red wine from Burgundy - the famous "Beaujolais", a glass of a good liquor will not harm anyone neither. Beaujolais, also available in Slovakia, is light, sourish, refreshing and it perfectly fits for the dark poultry meat. When you finally sit down at the table and taste this poultry goodness, the words of thanks in American style will come out of your mouth by themselves - thanks for being able to afford this great meal, to enjoy it and to share the enjoyment with someone. There is nothing else to add, only to thank good heavens for not being a goose ...
Slow Food is the name of a movement that originated in response to the fast food boom and the globalization of gastronomy, "thanks” to which we can buy in supermarkets everything, everywhere, anytime. The aim of the movement is to slow down people's meals and make them think more about it. Fast and uniformly unified fast food restaurants, offering worldwide same looking, smelling and (in) tasting, expressly prepared meals served in paper and plastic, are in total contrast to the Slow Food movement's effort to revert to a traditional dining culture based on slow meals with family or friends, which are prepared from typical local ingredients and according to perhaps even forgotten traditional recipes. The movement was created in Italy in 1986 on the initiative of Carl Petrini, who decided to protect Italian regional food, good food and enjoyment of it, and to alert people to slow down the pace of life. Its activities quickly attracted supporters and expanded into a global movement, which today promotes three basic principles: good, tasty and healthy food of high quality, the production of which is environmentally friendly and cost-effective for both consumers and producers. Also in Slovakia (in Bratislava, Banská Bystrica and Poprad) there are three official local convenings of this movement, which are involved in propagating its ideas, but also they actively organize various events such as Good Markets, pig-slaughtering, tasting dinners, gastro and community festivals, along with recommending Slovak slow-food restaurants and producers and supporting the Arche of Taste project, which catalogs and protects traditional local products from extinction and oblivion. If you want to attend some interesting gastronomic events, just look at their website and you will know where the food will be slow and therefore good ... Traditional Slovak cuisine is a remarkably ideal slow-food example. For instance, the preparation of the meal such as tatters with sauerkraut and Orava bacon is not fast at all - peel potatoes, grate potatoes, mix dough, let the water boil, throw in the tatters, stew the cabbage, roast the bacon - it takes time and it takes time also to digest them:) I come from Orava and this is a region that disposes, besides many natural beauties, also of a rich heritage of our grandmothers’ recipes, who, despite simple and poor in number ingredients, were able to prepare far-famed tasty specialties. After all, Orava is the region of potatoes, cheese strings, sheep cheese, Orava bacon and that’s why our family decided to prepare a small family slow-food festival at home and cook all weekend using only local ingredients while all dishes were based on potatoes. So we bought a bag of potatoes, plums, beetroot and fermented cabbage, got home-made and home-grown eggs, bacon, poppy, butter and cream, and prepared meals according to verified recipes: poppy seed dumplings, sauerkraut tatters, potato rösti, potato bread, plum dumplings, but we neither were without “French” baked potatoes or cream potatoes au gratin. We were all involved in the preparation according to our abilities and possibilities, we all dined and enjoyed the food together, laughing, talking and recalling memories and the time was passing somehow beyond us. I think that such a weekend, spent with family or friends, full of good homemade food, is not only in conformity with the modern trend of the Slow food movement, but especially an amazing way to overcome the sadness of rainy autumn days and it is also a unique answer to the question "Where do I like eating?" - surely AT HOME!
08.10.2017
The holidays have definitely come to an end, the school year is in full swing, and with the duties of our children come also the duties of their mothers to take care of their well-contented bellies while they are at school. After the initial September enthusiasm and resolutions about healthy, tasty and original school snack, the enthusiasm fades away in the swirl of other duties, mothers (or dads) have run out of inspiration and they increasingly resort to the fastest solution - giving children money to buy something at school, not speaking about the fact that parents themselves hardly even have time to think of their own snack to work. Comparing the situation to previous years, nothing has changed this year, except of one thing - the dairy bars, where you could easily get a healthy and tasty snack, have disappeared. Fortunately, the situation is slowly getting better, approaching old good times, and the concept of catering facilities, which focus exclusively on satisfying a little hunger, is beginning to return. However, the gastronomy, compared to the dairy bar era, has advanced and so we can feel also here the original impact of modern eating trends. The example of such snack concept is “Praclík”, which can be found at five locations in Bratislava and we will hope that they will be able to offer their service in other cities as well. In “Praclík” you will find a wide selection of sandwich pastry that responds to current trends and therefore offers classic white, but also dark, spelled or pumpkin pastry, classic garniture (ham, cheese, fillet, meatball), but also fusion with Italian cuisine (prosciutto, mozzarella, dried tomatoes). Self-service stores allow you to quickly compound your snack by putting freshly prepared stuffed roll or baguette according to your taste and mood into pre-packed snack bags with soft drink, fruit and sweet. The pastry is being replenished throughout the day, you can even watch its preparation and due to all-day opening hours “Praclík” offers not only the original snack for a bargain price, but also breakfast, light lunch or a quick dinner. Their slogan "Fresh, tasty and fast" is fulfilled to a T and they answer the question "What for a snack?" to busy parents or busy students with charm and tasteful liking.
Our interest in the snack gastronomy business was attracted also by “Pomazánkovo” on Obchodná Street in Bratislava, which represents another interesting idea transformed into a unique and unusual yet discreet spread bar that offers exactly what you would expect by its name - fair and incredibly delicious and smooth spreads on crunchy and savoury bread. Every day (except weekends) you have a choice of traditional Slovak spreads - egg, cracklings, sheep cheese, garlic, fish (tuna with dill) - one better than the other, or you might find the courage to try some unusual taste - beetroot or sardine with coconut. Spreads are put directly on the freshly sliced bread and you can choose from three sprinkle toppings (chives, tomatoes or gravy bacon) and tap a warm tea in a pot “all you can drink”. Everything is prepared on the spot and undoubtedly with love, because everything tastes more than exceptionally - almost like a snack made at home by your mother. If you do not have time to enjoy this great snack (or breakfast or afternoon snack) in the place, they will gladly pack it with you. "Pomazánkovo" will simply make you return back to your childhood by means of tastes which belonged to it, not speaking only about the spreads on the home-made bread. You can run in here during the day for a hot soup, semolina porridge or home-made vanilla curd cream or excellent poppy cake, whereby you can always be ready for little tasty surprise according to the current season and the offer of local suppliers. “Pomazánkovo” proves that simple is beautiful and for tasty enjoyment it is not necessary to stun clients with the noble interior and incomprehensible menu of luxury restaurants. Both above mentioned places are an original and certainly a healthy alternative to fast food and kebab, and thanks to the fair and responsible approach, when the final product is prepared from the beginning right on the spot (unlike unpacked, fried or microwaved semi-finished fast food products) their nice atmosphere and smell reminds you that even a little hunger deserves a tasty satisfaction ...
02.09.2017
Slovakia is a country that can enchant and shock at the same time. On one side you will discover picturesque nooks and in a moment you will experience something unsuspected and surprising.
Paradox number 1: Coffee from a car tastes better than in a restaurant. We arrived at such an experience in Slovenská Ľupča, where we attempted to visit a partially reconstructed castle. The castle and the whole castle complex were absolutely enchanting - we did not expect such a well done reconstruction, with a sense of detail and atmosphere, nor such a romantic, even fairy-tale mood that was awakened by local legends and stories during our visit, and not at all so perfect coffee and hot chocolate, which we bought after the tour in the parking lot in front of the castle in a small mobile car. It was bossed by a young barista girl, who was professionally able, even in these extreme conditions, to prepare an incredibly delicious cappuccino and caffé latte with such fluffy milk foam that the castle and its surroundings seemed even more magical. And we did well to stop for coffee at the castle, because in the center of the village, we could not find any other facility of this type open, even the local restaurant opens only on demand whereby they paradoxically have forgotten to leave any contact. The restaurant “Pod Lipami” in Ľubochňa, where hundreds of patients from all over Slovakia flow to the National Endocrinology Institute on weekdays, in turn should not be open at all. After the patients have been queuing for registration for half an hour, another half an hour standing in another line for blood-taking on an empty stomach, they are so hungry that they would eat even nails and they just yearn for a cup of good coffee or tea and a hearty breakfast. Paradoxically, you won’t get neither of these in above mentioned restaurant open from 7:00 am. Of course you can order coffee and breakfast there and they will also bring it to you, but after tasting it you would prefer those nails. “Fortunately” there are coffee machines in the corridors of the Institute and CBA supermarket nearby. You will not feel the difference in the taste of coffee (the one from the vending machine is more than half cheaper than the one in the restaurant) and the restaurant’s scrambled eggs are certainly not worth digestive problems, so a sweet roll from the supermarket is an evident and safe choice for your breakfast...
Paradox number 2: In Liptov region tourists are offered with paella and octopus. Unbelievable? It is possible in Korytnica, once famous but today devastated spa with unique mineral water, which effectively helps with omnifarious digestive troubles and hematopoietic problems. In the restaurant “U Svätopluka”, which is located in the building of the former post office and was bought, and reconstructed with a bit of rashness, by a Croatian businessman, you can choose from 8 types of paella and pizza, you can try various tapas or cruji or taste cuttlefish, mussels and shrimps ... On the other hand, you will be looking in vain for traditional and typical Slovak Liptov cheese or sheep cheese dumplings in its menu. I am not very convinced of the freshness of all the sea monsters, yet the climate of the Liptov region is perhaps not ideal for them. Fortunately you still can tap the great healing water in one of the five accessed springs to help you digest this unusual Liptov sea menu.
The traditions and heritage of our ancestors are treated quite differently in the uniquely preserved Slovak mining village Špania Dolina. The beauty of the village in the middle of the mountains, which constantly and consciously maintains its mining character, will touch your heart. A remarkable church, traditional miners' houses, a knocker, mining tunnels, a dentelle museum or a mine astronomical clock will simply excite both Slovaks and foreigners. In addition, in the restaurant of the pension “Klopačka” (Knocker) you can enjoy authentic mining menu, which is based on local and typically Slovak food - potatoes, onions, cabbage, cheese, sheep cheese, bacon, poppy, plum jam ... Salty or sweet, on all accounts it is Slovak and even flavoured by Slovak hospitality of local residents. Paradoxically, it works!
21.08.2017
I like trips to small Slovak towns. Everything is close, tourist sights and attractions are nicely together without crowds of tourists, a parking place can be found without any problems and the locals are kind and willing to help and advise in the spirit of the ancient tradition of townie descendants proud of their town. On the square, or in its close proximity, I am usually pleased to discover a cozy café or restaurant with a remarkable menu, discreet and stylish interior or an interesting name that immediately attracts me in. Such as "Mlsná Emma" (Emma with a sweet tooth) in Pezinok. The original combination of the chocolate factory and the sales gallery offers a tasty delight at the artistic level. Not only are you surrounded by art in its true sense in the form of unusual art exhibits you can buy, the art is also the way of subtile serving of exceptionally good hot chocolate and the far-famed Ebenica coffee from Modra, which is a known concept not only in Slovakia, but also in the world, where it has won prestigious awards. If you visit Modra, you should not miss a visit of their roaster, which also includes a coffee shop, where you are not only advised on the selection, but of course, you will have a chance to taste this exquisite coffee. In "Mlsná Emma" you can find also the famous ILLUI pralines, which simply have no competition in the Slovak context. According to me, they are very likely to the legendary pralines of Paris chocolatier Pierre Hermé, by both the softness of the filling and chocolate of high quality, as well as by the unique combination of flavors. It would be an unforgivable sin not to taste them, as well as "Emma’s" cakes made for a delicate snack, moreover, healthy, as they have gluten-free but still delicious variants. Summer “must-have” is definitely ice chocolate, which will refresh you in the holiday heat without losing chocolate pleasure.
In Malacky, where everything is really close, just a few steps from the summer swimming pool, you will find the inconspicuous café "Kralikova café & cakes". The more inconspicuous it is from the outside, the more remarkable it is inside. Original and cozy interior, where you immediately feel like visiting your close friends, first-class offer and impeccable preparation of Green Plantation coffee from Komárno and exceedigly divine desserts will guarantee you a feeling of well-being because of which you will want to return to Malacky. After more detailed examination of the menu, I also found out that you could visit this place with so called bio friends who prefer modern trends in eating. All coffees are prepared also in decaffeinated version with lactose-free vegetable milk (almond, coconut or cashew) and sweetened with coconut sugar. For children they prepare raw chocolate and babycinno (foamy milk with a flavor), for chauffeurs they serve homemade ice tea, fresh lemonades, favorite smoothies or glacial and coconut water (!) and for non-drivers they offer local varieties of wine from small family wineries. The inscription on the wall "New wind in Malacky" is apparently true. I was enchanted by this wind and I will secretly hope that it will blow to my little hometown of Orava once.
13.08.2017
Statistics show that foreign tourists spend on average only one day in our capital. In the morning they get off the boat or bus and spend the whole day visiting the famous sights of Bratislava and wandering the streets of the Old Town. However, not only the monuments “feed” the tourist and during that day one has to eat something as well, preferably something typical Slovak. I’ve decided to try the life of a one-day tourist at first hand and find out where they might like eating in Bratislava. It is advisable to start the day with a good breakfast, ideally close to one of the mandatory tourist stops. That is why I found a café with a melodious Slovak name "U Guľky" on Židovská Street below Bratislava Castle, just opposite St. Martin's Cathedral, with their offer, starting at 7:30, of sandwiches or croissants, coffee and tea, and sultana buns with hot chocolate as well, as a good choice. However, when I arrived at the address, just after seven thirty, a subtle woman came out the café, locked the door, got into her beige mini car, and was gone. My concerns were confirmed - the door was locked, there was no shutdown announcement, through the window I saw empty shelves and the chairs set out on the tables. I could forget about the buns and hot chocolate. Fortunately, just a few steps from here you can find café "Moods” on Rybné Square, where they will not let you starve to die. From 7:00 am they offer great rye bread with classic spreads (cottage cheese, egg, cracklings), sandwiches with butter, ham and cheese, eggs prepared in various ways, cakes, yoghurt, healthy cereals, but they will also satisfy you with the international offer of real English breakfast and crunchy French croissants. All this is complemented by an excellent coffee and the view of Bratislava Castle and the SNP Bridge. Energized with breakfast, you can set off to explore the beauties of Bratislava. I decided to visit the Natural Exposition of the Slovak National Museum which surprised me pleasantly with an engaging exhibition of high quality where you will not be bored. For example, you will learn that the word mammoth means mole, which I found very amusing when I stood in front of a huge stuffed mammoth and imagined it digging corridors underground ... On the other hand, it could be used for drilling tunnels and thus help to finally finish the Slovak highway ... With this futuristic vision, I continued to climb the observation platform on the SNP Bridge, known as UFO. You see Bratislava like a pocket handkerchief and there is no other restaurant with such a view. Nevertheless, it was time to return to the ground and find another tasty place for lunch, adequate to tourist financial means. Thanks to the strategic location of their branches throughout Bratislava, "Regal Burger" offers to tourists in various places, among other things, also a Slovak-style hamburger with sheep cheese, apples, horseradish mayonnaise and skinned potato chips. The perfect harmony of these Slovak tastes, the quality of ingredients from local suppliers, the precision of their preparation and the cordial service are the reasons why you will not be certainly disappointed. The perfect sweet point after the lunch on hot summer days is ice cream, and truly, its offer is really rich in Bratislava. If you want the best one, and you have a lot of time, join the endless queue in front of "Koun". If you have less time and you can do with the second best ice cream in Bratislava, go to "Arthur". The way to find it is to go opposite the people coming with black cornets and purple ice cream (cornets are made of cocoa and ice cream of lavender). You will really get the new dimension of the ice cream that they promise. There is simply no competition for their nougat. The day is coming to its end, and after ticking all the monuments on the list and wearing down the soles, it fits well for everyone to end it originally - in "Buchtáreň" on Hurbanovo Square, just a few steps from Michalská Gate. You will be served there with steamed stuffed dumplings (sweet or salty) by two young and lovable enthusiasts of Slovak traditional cooking. Each dumpling is cut into small pieces, so that the sprinkled topping of your choice and the generous portion of melted butter can go inside. Be sure to get packed irresistible baked buns that taste like those prepared by your grandmother, except that they are prepared by these charmingly funny guys. Since my list of Bratislava monuments has been ticked, I spent the afternoon in spirit of sport in the hyper-modern sports complex "X-Bionic Sphere" in nearby Šamorín, which meets the criteria of the highest standard of world sports grounds. Ultra-modern technologies in all spacious halls will allow you to do sport like a professional. In the fitness zone you will find so many stationary bikes that the entire Tour de France peloton could easily train there and the swimming pool parameters in the aqua zone will satisfy even the most demanding swimmers. The resort is equipped with sufficient accommodation capacity in a luxury hotel, but it pays to come back, because on the way to Bratislava, in Rovinka, you must definitely stop for the best langos from Irenka. Although Mrs. Irenka is a little strange and sometimes grumpy, her langos and chicken wings are legendary and after sporting performances are definitely worth stopping. Be careful not to miss it, it would be a great pity :) Finally, I can say with ease that being a tourist for one day in Bratislava has its tasty charm ...
30.4.2017
The very first thing I must point out is that it is not fast food. Firstly, it is by no means fast, as you can wait even half an hour for your food, and secondly, it has nothing to do with frozen, half-world transported and plastic-packed mass in the form of fries or burgers offered by international unified chains, one of the symbols of globalization and unhealthy diet. Bratislava street food, like other big cities, offers tasty, small, yet full-valued food in hand, prepared from quality ingredients, according to your wish, by gastronomic enthusiasts who take care about their customers' satisfaction. Such example is “Regal Burger” on Palackého street, where you find the guarantee of freshness and quality of meat and other ingredients from which they prepare their menu and you do not have to be afraid to ask for a burger according to your taste. The willingness of the staff is limitless and the taste of food exceptional. Street food enthusiasts can’t miss Orbis Street Food on Laurinská Street, where you get the crunchiest fries prepared from real potatoes by the original Belgian double roasting method. To accompany your fries you can choose from a wide range of sauces, but they are delicious on their own, only slightly salted. Thanks to the offer of other meals from various parts of the world, you can appease even bigger hunger there and satisfy your taste buds without unnecessary burdening your digestion with poor quality fat or artificial flavorings, so typical for mainstream fast food restaurants. Thirdly, I would like to mention a small store, which has a soft spot in my heart and for me is definitely Bratislava’s hot favourite in this category - Petite Creperie on Vysoká Street. Pancakes so crispy, so delicious, filled only with the best, you will not find elsewhere in Slovakia. Whether sweet or salty (especially those with beetroot dip) will not disappoint your expectations. Incontestably inspired by the French originals, complemented by honesty in preparation and love of service - all this explains the growing interest and therefore steel yourself with patience while waiting for your portion. But with your first bite, you forget about waiting and start thinking about when you will come again. Although the offer of meals in these establishments is limited in scope and seasonally varied, I have not been disappointed yet. Now it’s up to you to judge:)
23.4.2017
My last visit of Bratislava had a delicate reason - a painful medical examination that I tried to compensate for something delicious, such as a tasty breakfast at “Moods bakery and coffee” at Hviezdoslav Square, where I like to come back for a tasty and well-prepared coffee and crunchy, even sinfully good, croissants that take me for a moment to my beloved France ... Just as the name of this caffé declares - you can make your mood awesome with a piece of pastry and a cup of coffee even if, or especially if, something unpleasant waits for you on the day. Also this time they got it - croissants were still warm, coffee scenting, so finally the examination was not that painful. I have to mention also the fantastic dark bread that they bake there and that I get packed - be with just butter, cheese, vegetables and another great breakfast is prepared ... On the same day I experienced also an unexpected but all the tastier surprise where we might not normally expect it - in the hospital buffet at Kramáre, right at the entrance to the University Hospital. I found there great baguettes - fresh, crunchy, stuffed with ham or cheese and especially real butter - no mayonnaise, artificial flavourings, nor pre-baked frozen bread. For a long journey on train, that was waiting for me, I couldn't imagine any better small lunch. Next time, I will definitely try something else from their tempting-looking assortment, although I will have to break the ice wall of the unwillingness of the nervous service. Nevertheless, it is worth the baguettes, although it is a pity that I rarely visit many tasty places I like just because of unpleasant service, such as Bratislava's café Mondieu. It has all the qualifications for a great breakfast place - good coffee, excellent croissants, French atmosphere and ambience, but I dare to go there because of the arrogant attitude of the service, about which I have not forgotten since last autumn ...